Roman Amphitheatre of Pompeii: The World’s Oldest Masonry Amphitheatre

Crossing the entrance of the Roman Amphitheatre of Pompeii is like taking a leap back in time two thousand years. This is not just a monument, but a place where history can be touched: the oldest surviving masonry amphitheatre in the world, built around 70 BC, welcomes you with its perfectly intact grandeur. As you walk in the arena, you can almost hear the shouts of the gladiators and the roar of the crowd that once filled its stands for 20,000 spectators. The feeling is unique: you are surrounded by arches, corridors, and stairs that still function exactly as they did then. There is no need to imagine what it was like, because you see it with your own eyes. The amphitheatre is located in the southeastern part of the excavations, slightly set back from the chaos of the Forum, and this gives it a more intimate and reflective atmosphere. For me, it was the most exciting moment of all Pompeii: here there are not just ruins, but a complete structure that truly makes you understand the greatness of Roman engineering.

The amphitheater was built by the duumvirs Caius Quinctius Valgus and Marcus Porcius, two important local magistrates, shortly after Pompeii became a Roman colony. Its inauguration in 70 BC marked a pivotal event for the city, quickly becoming the center of social life and entertainment. Here, not only gladiatorial combats took place, but also venationes (hunts with exotic animals) and perhaps even naumachiae (simulated naval battles). In 59 AD, the amphitheater was the scene of a violent clash between Pompeians and Nucerians during a spectacle, leading the Roman Senate to suspend games for ten years. Then, in 79 AD, the eruption of Mount Vesuvius buried it along with the rest of the city, remarkably preserving it. It was rediscovered during Bourbon excavations in 1748 and today is one of the few Roman amphitheaters where you can still walk through the original underground passages, used to bring gladiators and animals into the arena.

• 70 BC: Construction and inauguration of the amphitheater
• 59 AD: Serious riot between Pompeians and Nucerians
• 79 AD: Burial by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius
• 1748: Rediscovery during Bourbon excavations

What stands out most is how this amphitheater remains a masterpiece of functionality even today. Unlike others built on natural slopes, here the Romans had to dig a large pit and construct retaining walls to create the cavea, showcasing highly advanced techniques. The seating is divided into three sections: the ima cavea for the elite, the media for the middle class, and the summa for the common people. But the true gem lies underground: a labyrinth of corridors and cells where gladiators, wild beasts, and equipment were kept. You can still see the holes in the walls where animals were tied and the ramps that led directly into the arena. The acoustics are extraordinary: try speaking softly at the center of the arena, and your voice will carry to every corner. This was not just a venue for spectacles but a perfectly oiled machine, designed to entertain thousands safely and efficiently.

While much of Pompeii can be crowded and chaotic, the amphitheater often offers an oasis of tranquility. Being somewhat distant from the main circuit, many visitors skip it or arrive tired, so you might find yourself almost alone in this immense space. Sitting on the steps at sunset is a magical experience: the warm light illuminates the stone and creates long shadows that accentuate the architecture. Here you can truly pause to reflect, without the pressure of crowds jostling in the patrician houses. It’s also a perfect spot to understand Roman urban planning: from here, you can clearly see how the amphitheater was connected to the Great Palaestra by a portico, forming a unique sports complex. For me, this moment of quiet was just as important as visiting the more famous villas, because it allows you to connect with the place in a more personal and profound way.

First, because it’s the only Roman amphitheater where you can walk on the original arena and underground passages, not reconstructed. Unlike the Colosseum, everything here is authentic: the stones beneath your feet are the same ones trodden by gladiators. Second, for the incredible acoustics: try singing or speaking at the center and you’ll discover how the Romans designed it to carry every sound to every seat. Third, because it offers a different perspective on Pompeii: not just houses and shops, but a mass gathering place that reveals the social and entertainment aspects of Roman life. Moreover, being less crowded, it allows you to enjoy it at your own pace, take photos without people in the way, and truly imagine what it was like during a show.

The best time is early morning, right when the site opens, or late afternoon, around closing time. The light is softer, the summer heat is less intense, and crowds are smaller. Avoid the midday hours in summer, when the sun beats directly onto the arena with no shelter. In spring and autumn, however, you can visit at any time, enjoying the mild temperatures. If possible, choose a weekday: weekends are always more crowded. The amphitheater is also evocative under cloudy skies, which enhance the stone’s contrasts.

Just a few steps from the amphitheatre lies the Great Gymnasium, a massive sports complex where young Pompeians used to train. It’s worth seeing its central pool and the still-visible frescoes. A little further on, the Great Theatre and the Small Theatre (Odeion) complete the picture of ancient entertainment: theatrical and musical performances were held here. If you have time, make a quick visit to the Sanctuary of Venus, in a panoramic position overlooking Vesuvius, for a breathtaking glimpse of what the Romans saw before the eruption.