Barrettinelli Lighthouse: 1913 lighthouse on pink granite rock in La Maddalena

The Barrettinelli Lighthouse is not just a reference point for boats, but a true solitary guardian overlooking the La Maddalena archipelago. Getting there by boat is already part of the adventure: you leave the tourist port and navigate among pink granite islets, with the water changing color from turquoise to emerald. When it finally appears on the horizon, with its white tower standing out against the sky, you immediately understand why photographers adore it. There’s nothing around, just the sound of the wind and waves crashing against the rocks. It’s a place that makes you feel small, but in a beautiful way, as if you’ve reached the end of the world. Personally, that feeling of total isolation is what struck me the most – it’s not a place to visit in a hurry, but to savor slowly.

This lighthouse has a history that began in 1913, when it was first lit to guide ships through the treacherous waters of the archipelago, known for their shallow seabeds and unpredictable currents. During World War II, it played a crucial role for military maritime traffic in the area. Until the 1980s, it was manned by keepers who lived there in spartan conditions before automation. Today, it is managed by the Italian Navy and continues to operate, though without a permanent human presence. Its simple, functional architecture—a white masonry cylindrical tower—speaks of an era when such buildings were vital for safety at sea. I like to think of how many sailors, over the course of a century, have found comfort in its light.

• 1913: lighthouse first lit
• World War II: used for military traffic
• 1980s: automation and end of permanent keeper presence
• Today: managed by the Italian Navy, still operational

Reaching Barrettinelli Lighthouse is an experience that makes the journey worthwhile on its own. There are no regular ferry services, so you’ll need to rent a boat in La Maddalena or book a private excursion with a local captain. I opted for a dinghy rented at Cala Gavetta port – more agile for exploring the coves along the way. The route takes you along the north coast of La Maddalena island, passing near places like Cala Francese, with its abandoned granite quarries that look like natural sculptures. The navigation takes about half an hour, but time flies because the scenery is continuously spectacular. Note: landing isn’t always easy – it depends on the sea and wind, which can change quickly here. My advice? Rely on someone who knows these waters well, perhaps by asking locally for an experienced captain. The final stretch, as the boat approaches the islet, is thrilling: you see the lighthouse up close, with its rock base plunging into the sea.

Once you disembark (if conditions allow), you find yourself on a barren, windy islet where the lighthouse is the only man-made structure. There are no facilities – no bars, no restrooms, just wild nature. But that’s precisely the beauty of it. You can walk around the base of the lighthouse, admiring the 360-degree view of the archipelago: on one side, La Maddalena; on the other, the islands of Spargi and Budelli with their iconic beaches. For photographers, it’s a paradise: the sunset light here is magical, with golden reflections on the granite and the contrast between the white tower and the blue sky. I took dozens of photos, trying to capture that atmosphere of majestic solitude. If you love the sea, bring a mask and snorkel: the surrounding waters are crystal clear and teeming with life, ideal for a quick snorkel among fish and rocks. Be careful, though: it’s not a place for a relaxed swim – currents can be strong, and there are no beaches, only rocks.

Three concrete reasons to put it on your itinerary. First: it’s one of Sardinia’s most iconic lighthouses, with a dramatic position on an isolated rock that makes it a unique photographic subject—you won’t find many postcards like this. Second: the experience of arriving by boat gives you a special perspective on the archipelago, away from the more crowded tourist routes; you’ll see La Maddalena from an unusual, almost secret angle. Third: it’s a place of silence and contemplation, rare in an area often packed in summer; here you can truly disconnect, listening only to the wind and sea. For me, it was worth it just for that sense of minimal adventure—no complications, just you, a boat, and a lighthouse in the middle of nowhere. If you’re looking for something more than just a beach, this is the right spot.

The best season? From May to September, when the sea is calmer and the days are longer, but avoid the peak of August if you don’t like crowded harbors. I was there in June and it was perfect: the wind was present but not excessive, and the water was already warm enough for a swim. The most enchanting time of day is undoubtedly late afternoon, around sunset. The light turns golden, the lighthouse stands out against a sky shifting from pink to orange, and the atmosphere is simply magical. If you can, plan your trip to be there for the blue hour—it’s worth it. Winter is not recommended: the sea can be rough and conditions less safe for navigation. A little secret? Early mornings are often windy, while the afternoon tends to calm down, so it’s better to plan accordingly.

If you have time, another experience I recommend is the boat excursion to the islands of Spargi and Budelli, part of the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park. At Spargi, there’s Cala Corsara, a beach with incredibly white sand and crystal-clear waters that resemble an aquarium—perfect for snorkeling. Budelli is famous for the Pink Beach, although access is regulated to protect it. Both are reachable with the same boats that go to the lighthouse, often on combined itineraries. Another idea is to visit Forte San Vittorio in La Maddalena, an 18th-century fortress with a nice naval museum and a panoramic view of the town and harbor. It’s a good way to delve into the military history of the archipelago, which has always had a strategic role. Personally, after the solitude of the lighthouse, returning to the liveliness of La Maddalena for an ice cream in the center was the perfect contrast.