The Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls is one of Rome’s four papal basilicas, second only to St. Peter’s in size. Here lies the Apostle Paul, martyred in the 1st century. The current building, rebuilt after a fire in 1823, preserves treasures such as Arnolfo di Cambio’s Gothic ciborium and the Cosmatesque cloister by the Vassalletto family. Free admission to the basilica, cloister for a fee (€4).
Must-see:
• Tomb of Saint Paul under the papal altar
• 13th-century cloister with twisted columns and mosaics
• Series of 256 medallions with portraits of all popes
• 13th-century apse mosaic and 5th-century triumphal arch
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Rome’s second papal basilica houses the tomb of Saint Paul, a 13th-century cloister, and a unique series of papal portraits. Free entry and historical curiosities.
Good to know
Evocative Introduction
Entering the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls is like diving into the history of Christianity. Second only to St. Peter’s in size, this papal basilica stands exactly where the apostle Paul was buried. The atmosphere is solemn but not heavy: the quadriportico with its 150 columns welcomes you and prepares you for the spectacle of the five-nave interior. The golden mosaics, the polychrome marbles, and that white and gold ceiling leave you speechless. And then there is the cloister, a Cosmatesque jewel that seems to come out of a fairy tale. In short, a place that makes you feel small and at the same time part of something immense.
A Brief History
The history here is long and layered. It all begins in the 1st century AD, when Saint Paul is beheaded and buried in a necropolis on the Via Ostiense. Constantine builds a first basilica, consecrated in 324. Then, between 385 and 395, Emperor Theodosius enlarges it to five naves. In the Middle Ages it becomes a pilgrimage destination and is enriched with masterpieces such as the Gothic ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio (1285) and the Vassalletto cloister. Then, in 1823, a fire (caused by a careless tinsmith) destroys almost everything. The reconstruction, desired by Leo XII, faithfully restores the ancient appearance, and the basilica is reconsecrated in 1840. Here are the key moments:
- 64-67 AD – Martyrdom and burial of Saint Paul
- 324 – Consecration of the Constantinian basilica
- 385-395 – Theodosian expansion
- 1285 – Ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio
- 1823 – Devastating fire
- 1825-1854 – Neoclassical reconstruction
- 1980 – UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Cosmatesque Cloister
If there’s one part of the basilica that stays in your heart, it’s the cloister. Work of the Vassalletto brothers (13th century), it is a masterpiece of Cosmatesque art: paired columns, some smooth, others twisted, decorated with colorful mosaics and precious marbles. Walking through it, the noise of the city disappears. At the center, a small garden with aromatic herbs and biblical trees – the Benedictine monks have recreated a corner of Eden. Around it, ancient fragments and Roman sarcophagi. Entry costs 4 euros, but it’s worth every penny. It’s the perfect place for a pause of silence and beauty.
The Portraits of the Popes
Along the central nave, high up, runs a series unique in the world: 256 mosaic medallions depicting all the popes, from Saint Peter to Francis. The idea was born in the 5th century under Leo the Great, but the current ones are from the 1800s, made after the fire. Each roundel is in golden mosaic, and there is a peculiarity: the last niches are empty, ready for future pontiffs. As you walk, you look up and feel part of a history two thousand years long. A detail that makes this basilica truly special.
Why visit it
Three good reasons not to miss it. First: it’s one of the four papal basilicas, but the least chaotic – no mile-long queues like at St. Peter’s. Second: the tomb of St. Paul is here, beneath the high altar, and you can see it up close. Third: the Cosmatesque cloister is among the most beautiful in Rome, with those decorated columns that look like jewels. Plus, entry to the basilica is free, so you can visit without worry. Bring a little calm and prepare to be enchanted.
When to Go
The best time? Early in the morning, around 8 a.m., when the basilica opens and light filters through the alabaster window panes. The rays illuminate the golden mosaics and everything seems to glow. If you can, choose a weekday: Sundays are more crowded due to Mass. In autumn or spring, the weather is perfect for a stroll through the quadriportico and nearby Parco Schuster. Avoid the height of summer: inside it’s cool, but the cloister can be stifling.
Nearby
Two ideas to complete your visit. Parco Schuster: the large park surrounding the basilica, dedicated to a 19th-century cardinal. Perfect for a walk or a picnic in the shade of the pines. Then, just a few steps away, there’s the Pyramid of Cestius, a Roman tomb shaped like a pyramid that looks like it came from Egypt. It’s located right at the intersection of Via Ostiense and Via Marmorata, about a 15-minute walk away. Using the same metro (Piramide stop) you can reach the Testaccio neighborhood for an aperitif.
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💡 Did You Know…?
In 1823, a fire devastated the basilica, caused by the negligence of a tinsmith who forgot to extinguish the fire used to repair the gutters. Miraculously, the transept, apse, and cloister were spared. Today, in the central nave, the papal medallions leave empty spaces for future pontiffs: a curious sign of continuity.