ExMà Cagliari: Former Slaughterhouse with Contemporary Art, Concerts, and Courtyards

When you arrive at ExMà, you don’t quite expect this. A former slaughterhouse transformed into a vibrant cultural hub, in the heart of Casteddu, the historic district of Cagliari. The building itself is a sight to behold: the industrial red-brick structure, with those large arches, immediately speaks to you of a different past. Today, however, it’s full of life. You walk in and feel that raw, authentic atmosphere that makes you understand right away this isn’t your typical sterile art gallery. It’s a place where Sardinian contemporary art and more finds a home, mingling with people, with the city. I like to think of it as a creative lung in the historic center, a place that has managed to reinvent itself without losing its soul. Perfect for those who, like me, are looking for something beyond the beach or classic monuments: here you breathe the living Cagliari, the one that experiments and tells its story.

The story of ExMà is one of those successful urban reconversion stories. The building was constructed as a municipal slaughterhouse at the beginning of the twentieth century, precisely in 1907, and served that function for decades. Then, like many industrial spaces, it risked abandonment. The turning point came in the 1990s, when the Municipality of Cagliari decided to transform it into a center for contemporary arts. It wasn’t a simple renovation, but a true rebirth. Today it hosts often very interesting temporary exhibitions, concerts (from jazz to electronic), theatrical performances and events. It has become a reference point for local and international artists. Sometimes I wonder what it must have been like before, with such a different activity, and I find this contrast between past and present fascinating, all contained within those same walls.

• 1907: Construction as Municipal Slaughterhouse.
• 1990s: Closure and start of the reconversion project.
• 1997: Official inauguration as ExMà – Ex Mattatoio.
• Today: Cultural hub for exhibitions, music and contemporary theater.

What struck me, beyond the exhibition halls, were the internal courtyards. They are open spaces, almost like small squares, that transform during summer or on pleasant spring evenings. They’re used for aperitifs, small events, and sometimes even site-specific installations. Sitting there with a glass in hand, surrounded by that industrial architecture, perhaps listening to live music, is an experience that goes beyond simply visiting an exhibition. Then there’s the concert hall, which isn’t huge but has surprisingly good acoustics and an intimate atmosphere. I’ve seen concerts here by emerging Sardinian artists that I would have hardly discovered elsewhere. This is what’s wonderful about ExMà: it’s not a static container. It’s a place that constantly changes skin, depending on what it hosts. One day it’s a photography exhibition about Sardinia, the next day a poetry reading, the following week a children’s workshop. It invites you to return.

If you want to understand what’s brewing in Sardinian contemporary art, ExMà is an excellent starting point. The exhibitions often feature young artists from the island, but not in a folkloric way. They focus on current languages, video art, installations, and painting that engages with global themes while maintaining a local sensibility. I recall a solo exhibition by a Cagliari-based artist who worked with reclaimed materials from the area: incredibly powerful. You won’t find (only) classic easel paintings. It’s a more experimental approach, sometimes even disorienting, but always stimulating. Additionally, the center frequently collaborates with festivals and cultural initiatives in the city, such as the Time in Jazz Festival or the Cagliari Festival. This makes it an important node in the city’s cultural network. For me, visiting was a way to see a side of Cagliari I didn’t know—more underground and vibrant.

First: for the repurposed industrial architecture. It’s a concrete and successful example of how new life can be given to a historic place, and it’s beautiful to see even just from the outside. Second: to discover Sardinian contemporary art outside the mainstream circuits. It’s a privileged observatory. Third: for the informal and lively atmosphere. It’s not a silent, sacred museum; it’s a place where art blends with daily life, where you can meet artists, students, and simply curious visitors. It’s a cultural experience ‘within city reach’, easy to fit into a day of exploring Cagliari.

I would recommend going on a weekday late afternoon, perhaps in spring or early autumn. Why? The light filtering through the large windows and illuminating the red bricks is beautiful, and there’s less crowd compared to weekends. You can visit the exhibitions at your own pace. Then, if you get the chance, stay for an aperitif in one of the courtyards (when they organize it). It’s in those moments that the place reveals its dual soul: an exhibition space by day, a social hub in the evening. In summer, it can get quite hot inside, while in winter the atmosphere is more intimate, perfect for focusing on the artworks. In short, every moment has its charm, but the sunset here has something special.

After leaving ExMà, you’re in the heart of Casteddu. Take a short walk to the Bastione di Saint Remy and Terrazza Umberto I for a breathtaking view of the bay. It’s a classic that never gets old. If you prefer to stay on the theme of ‘art and urban regeneration’, just a few minutes’ walk away is the Marina district, with its independent art galleries and characteristic local spots. Or, for a total contrast, immerse yourself in the historic San Benedetto market, one of Italy’s largest covered markets, for an explosion of colors, scents, and Sardinian products. From contemporary art spaces to traditional markets: in a half-hour walk, you’ll see two complementary sides of the city.