Palazzo Schifanoia: The Hall of Months and Este Delights

If there is one place in Ferrara that embodies the Este genius loci, it is Palazzo Schifanoia. The name says it all: ‘schivar la noia’ – a refuge for courtly entertainment. But don’t think of it as just a pleasure palace. Here, in the Hall of the Months, you will find one of the most extraordinary fresco cycles of the 15th century. These murals blend astrology, mythology, and everyday life in a riot of colors that seem to narrate time itself. It is a museum that speaks of power, art, and pleasure, all within an elegant Renaissance building.

If there is one place in Ferrara that embodies the Este genius loci, it is Palazzo Schifanoia. The name says it all: ‘schivar la noia’ – a refuge for courtly entertainment. But don’t think of it as just a pleasure palace. Here, in the Hall of the Months, you will find one of the most extraordinary fresco cycles of the 15th century. These murals blend astrology, mythology, and everyday life in a riot of colors that seem to narrate time itself. It is a museum that speaks of power, art, and pleasure, all within an elegant Renaissance building.

Built in 1385 for Alberto V d’Este, it was expanded by Borso d’Este starting in 1466, who commissioned the Salone dei Mesi (frescoed between 1469 and 1470 by Francesco del Cossa and Ercole de’ Roberti). In 1493, Biagio Rossetti added the terracotta cornice. After the devolution of 1598, the palace declined: in the 18th century it became a tobacco factory and the frescoes were whitewashed. Rediscovered in the 19th century, it became a civic museum in 1898. The 2012 earthquake caused damage, but after restoration, in June 2020 the Salone and the Sala degli Stucchi were reopened, and since 2021 the entire palace has been open to visitors.

• 1385: construction for Alberto V d’Este
• 1466-1470: Borso’s expansion and frescoes of the Salone dei Mesi
• 1493: intervention by Biagio Rossetti
• 18th century: tobacco factory, frescoes hidden
• 1898: opening of the Civic Museum
• 2012: earthquake damage, restoration
• 2020-2021: complete reopening

Built in 1385 for Alberto V d’Este, it was expanded by Borso d’Este starting in 1466, who commissioned the Salone dei Mesi (frescoed between 1469 and 1470 by Francesco del Cossa and Ercole de’ Roberti). In 1493, Biagio Rossetti added the terracotta cornice. After the devolution of 1598, the palace declined: in the 18th century it became a tobacco factory and the frescoes were whitewashed. Rediscovered in the 19th century, it became a civic museum in 1898. The 2012 earthquake caused damage, but after restoration, in June 2020 the Salone and the Sala degli Stucchi were reopened, and since 2021 the entire palace has been open to visitors.

• 1385: construction for Alberto V d’Este
• 1466-1470: Borso’s expansion and frescoes of the Salone dei Mesi
• 1493: intervention by Biagio Rossetti
• 18th century: tobacco factory, frescoes hidden
• 1898: opening of the Civic Museum
• 2012: earthquake damage, restoration
• 2020-2021: complete reopening

The heart of the palace is the Hall of the Months, 25 meters long, 11 meters wide, and 7.5 meters high. Each month is depicted on three bands: at the top, pagan deities; in the middle, zodiac signs and decans; at the bottom, scenes from the life of Borso d’Este and agricultural activities. Only the months from March to September remain intact. The symbolic complexity is incredible: it combines astrology, political propaganda, and real life. The frescoes are the work of Francesco del Cossa and Ercole de’ Roberti, based on a design by the astrologer Pellegrino Prisciani. Thanks to recent restorations, the light now enhances them beautifully.

The heart of the palace is the Hall of the Months, 25 meters long, 11 meters wide, and 7.5 meters high. Each month is depicted on three bands: at the top, pagan deities; in the middle, zodiac signs and decans; at the bottom, scenes from the life of Borso d’Este and agricultural activities. Only the months from March to September remain intact. The symbolic complexity is incredible: it combines astrology, political propaganda, and real life. The frescoes are the work of Francesco del Cossa and Ercole de’ Roberti, based on a design by the astrologer Pellegrino Prisciani. Thanks to recent restorations, the light now enhances them beautifully.

But Schifanoia is not just frescoes. The museum itinerary includes 21 rooms with over 250 works. Highlights include sgraffito ceramics (like the Great plate with angel), medals by Pisanello, and the Hall of Virtues with polychrome stuccoes. The coffered ceiling and the wooden and stucco frieze by Domenico di Paris are unmissable. In the display cases, illuminated manuscripts, small bronzes, and ivories tell the refined taste of the Este family. A small room is dedicated to Giovanni Pasetti’s ceramic collection. The full visit takes about 2 hours, but even just the Hall and the Hall of Virtues are worth it.

But Schifanoia is not just frescoes. The museum itinerary includes 21 rooms with over 250 works. Highlights include sgraffito ceramics (like the Great plate with angel), medals by Pisanello, and the Hall of Virtues with polychrome stuccoes. The coffered ceiling and the wooden and stucco frieze by Domenico di Paris are unmissable. In the display cases, illuminated manuscripts, small bronzes, and ivories tell the refined taste of the Este family. A small room is dedicated to Giovanni Pasetti’s ceramic collection. The full visit takes about 2 hours, but even just the Hall and the Hall of Virtues are worth it.

First: a unique masterpiece. The Salone dei Mesi has no equal in Italy for its blend of allegory and realism. Second: it is a ‘human-scale’ museum, compact yet incredibly rich, perfect for a morning of art without fatigue. Third: recent restorations have restored the frescoes’ splendor, with lighting that enhances every detail. Moreover, the ticket includes entry to the Civic Lapidary, an interesting bonus.

First: a unique masterpiece. The Salone dei Mesi has no equal in Italy for its blend of allegory and realism. Second: it is a ‘human-scale’ museum, compact yet incredibly rich, perfect for a morning of art without fatigue. Third: recent restorations have restored the frescoes’ splendor, with lighting that enhances every detail. Moreover, the ticket includes entry to the Civic Lapidary, an interesting bonus.

If you can, choose a weekday morning: the light streaming through the windows makes the frescoes even more vivid. Avoid peak hours (11 AM–2 PM) on weekends, when the Great Hall gets crowded. Spring and autumn are perfect for combining a visit with a stroll through Ferrara’s historic center, which is utterly enchanting.

If you can, choose a weekday morning: the light streaming through the windows makes the frescoes even more vivid. Avoid peak hours (11 AM–2 PM) on weekends, when the Great Hall gets crowded. Spring and autumn are perfect for combining a visit with a stroll through Ferrara’s historic center, which is utterly enchanting.

Just a stone’s throw away, the Castello Estense is a must-see: an imposing fortress with moats and frescoed halls. If you love Renaissance art, the Palazzo dei Diamanti (about a 15-minute walk away) houses the National Art Gallery with works by Cosmè Tura and Garofalo. For a break, the Quadrilatero (market area) offers great spots to taste salama da sugo and pasticcio ferrarese.

Just a stone’s throw away, the Castello Estense is a must-see: an imposing fortress with moats and frescoed halls. If you love Renaissance art, the Palazzo dei Diamanti (about a 15-minute walk away) houses the National Art Gallery with works by Cosmè Tura and Garofalo. For a break, the Quadrilatero (market area) offers great spots to taste salama da sugo and pasticcio ferrarese.