The Upper Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi is a jewel of Italian Gothic architecture, built between 1228 and 1253. Its walls are completely covered with frescoes by masters such as Cimabue and Giotto, depicting biblical stories and the life of the saint. A place of extraordinary beauty and spirituality, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
4 must-see highlights:
– Giotto’s Frescoes: 28 scenes of St. Francis’s life in the nave, with perspective and realistic innovations.
– Cimabue’s Crucifixion: masterpiece in the left transept, with dramatic figures and St. Francis at the foot of the cross.
– Medieval Stained Glass: the oldest collection in Italy, illuminating the interior with colored light.
– Contrast with the Lower Basilica: the upper basilica, bright and soaring, offers a completely different experience from the dark crypt.
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The Upper Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi is a masterpiece of Italian Gothic architecture, with frescoes by Giotto and Cimabue depicting the saint’s life. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it offers a journey into medieval art.
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A Different Light, a Unique Emotion
Entering the Upper Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi is like moving from a whisper to a song. After the dim light of the lower basilica, here light floods in through large windows and the central rose window, creating an airy and soaring atmosphere. The single nave, the cross vaults, the polystyle pillars: everything draws the eye upward. But the real scene-stealers are the frescoes: on the walls, a riot of colors telling the story of salvation and the life of St. Francis. There is Cimabue’s Crucifixion, dramatic and powerful, and Giotto’s 28 scenes, which seem to stop time. It is an all-encompassing experience that envelops you and leaves you speechless. It is not just art: it is a journey into the heart of the Middle Ages.
A Different Light, a Unique Emotion
Entering the Upper Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi is like moving from a whisper to a song. After the dim light of the lower basilica, here light floods in through large windows and the central rose window, creating an airy and soaring atmosphere. The single nave, the cross vaults, the polystyle pillars: everything draws the eye upward. But the real scene-stealers are the frescoes: on the walls, a riot of colors telling the story of salvation and the life of St. Francis. There is Cimabue’s Crucifixion, dramatic and powerful, and Giotto’s 28 scenes, which seem to stop time. It is an all-encompassing experience that envelops you and leaves you speechless. It is not just art: it is a journey into the heart of the Middle Ages.
Historical Overview
Pope Gregory IX commissioned the basilica in 1228, immediately after the saint’s canonization, and it was completed in 1253 under Innocent IV. From the outset, it was conceived as a pilgrimage destination and a ‘papal chapel’ for the Franciscans, allies of the papacy. Its architecture introduced Gothic forms from across the Alps to Italy, with soaring lines and large stained-glass windows. Decoration work began at the end of the 13th century: Cimabue frescoed the transept and apse between 1288 and 1292, while Giotto painted the Stories of Saint Francis in the nave around 1290-1300. In 1997, an earthquake caused part of the vault to collapse and damaged the frescoes. After two years of restoration, the basilica reopened to the public, more beautiful than before. Key moments:
Historical Overview
Pope Gregory IX commissioned the basilica in 1228, immediately after the saint’s canonization, and it was completed in 1253 under Innocent IV. From the outset, it was conceived as a pilgrimage destination and a ‘papal chapel’ for the Franciscans, allies of the papacy. Its architecture introduced Gothic forms from across the Alps to Italy, with soaring lines and large stained-glass windows. Decoration work began at the end of the 13th century: Cimabue frescoed the transept and apse between 1288 and 1292, while Giotto painted the Stories of Saint Francis in the nave around 1290-1300. In 1997, an earthquake caused part of the vault to collapse and damaged the frescoes. After two years of restoration, the basilica reopened to the public, more beautiful than before. Key moments:
- 1228 – Construction begins by order of Gregory IX
- 1253 – Completion under Innocent IV
- 1288-1292 – Cimabue’s frescoes in the transept
- 1290-1300 – Giotto’s cycle on the life of Francis
- 1997 – Earthquake and damage to the vault
- 2000 – UNESCO inscription
- 1228 – Construction begins by order of Gregory IX
- 1253 – Completion under Innocent IV
- 1288-1292 – Cimabue’s frescoes in the transept
- 1290-1300 – Giotto’s cycle on the life of Francis
- 1997 – Earthquake and damage to the vault
- 2000 – UNESCO inscription
Giotto’s Frescoes: A Bible for the Poor
The lower band of the nave is an absolute masterpiece: 28 scenes depicting the life of St. Francis, taken from the Legenda Maior by St. Bonaventure. Giotto (or his school) painted them between 1290 and 1300, breaking with Byzantine tradition: the characters have expressive faces, natural gestures, and space is rendered with a still rudimentary but effective perspective. You can recognize the square of Assisi in the Homage of a Simple Man, the first living nativity in the Christmas at Greccio, and the famous Sermon to the Birds. Each scene is a window into the saint’s life, but also into the society of the time. Looking at these frescoes is like flipping through a medieval comic book, but with a depth that moves you. And to think they were meant to tell the story of faith to the poor who couldn’t read…
Giotto’s Frescoes: A Bible for the Poor
The lower band of the nave is an absolute masterpiece: 28 scenes depicting the life of St. Francis, taken from the Legenda Maior by St. Bonaventure. Giotto (or his school) painted them between 1290 and 1300, breaking with Byzantine tradition: the characters have expressive faces, natural gestures, and space is rendered with a still rudimentary but effective perspective. You can recognize the square of Assisi in the Homage of a Simple Man, the first living nativity in the Christmas at Greccio, and the famous Sermon to the Birds. Each scene is a window into the saint’s life, but also into the society of the time. Looking at these frescoes is like flipping through a medieval comic book, but with a depth that moves you. And to think they were meant to tell the story of faith to the poor who couldn’t read…
Cimabue and the Gothic Drama
In the transept and apse, Cimabue’s frescoes create a completely different atmosphere. Unfortunately, they are heavily damaged: Cimabue used a dry technique that caused the colors to fade, and the whites have oxidized, turning black. But even so, the power of his images is extraordinary. The Crucifixion in the left transept is a masterpiece of pathos: Christ isolated on the cross, surrounded by a shocked crowd. Among those present is also Saint Francis, a deliberate anachronism to underscore his connection with Christ. Cimabue was the best painter in Italy in his time, but Dante Alighieri tells us he was surpassed by Giotto. Seeing them side by side in this basilica is a unique emotion, a confrontation between two geniuses.
Cimabue and the Gothic Drama
In the transept and apse, Cimabue’s frescoes create a completely different atmosphere. Unfortunately, they are heavily damaged: Cimabue used a dry technique that caused the colors to fade, and the whites have oxidized, turning black. But even so, the power of his images is extraordinary. The Crucifixion in the left transept is a masterpiece of pathos: Christ isolated on the cross, surrounded by a shocked crowd. Among those present is also Saint Francis, a deliberate anachronism to underscore his connection with Christ. Cimabue was the best painter in Italy in his time, but Dante Alighieri tells us he was surpassed by Giotto. Seeing them side by side in this basilica is a unique emotion, a confrontation between two geniuses.
Why Visit It
Three practical reasons: 1. To admire the most important cycle of 13th-century frescoes. From Cimabue to Giotto, here you can breathe the evolution of Italian art. 2. To understand Italian Gothic. The basilica is a perfect hybrid between Umbrian Romanesque and French Gothic, with a harmony you won’t find elsewhere. 3. For the contrast with the lower basilica. Descending into the darkness and ascending to the light is an almost mystical experience. Plus, the basilica is less crowded than other destinations, and the visit can be combined with a tour of Assisi. Bring binoculars for the details of the frescoes high up!
Why Visit It
Three practical reasons: 1. To admire the most important cycle of 13th-century frescoes. From Cimabue to Giotto, here you can breathe the evolution of Italian art. 2. To understand Italian Gothic. The basilica is a perfect hybrid between Umbrian Romanesque and French Gothic, with a harmony you won’t find elsewhere. 3. For the contrast with the lower basilica. Descending into the darkness and ascending to the light is an almost mystical experience. Plus, the basilica is less crowded than other destinations, and the visit can be combined with a tour of Assisi. Bring binoculars for the details of the frescoes high up!
When to Go
The best time? Late afternoon in spring or autumn. The low sun shines through the stained glass, igniting the colors of the frescoes and creating an almost surreal atmosphere. In the early morning, conversely, the basilica is emptier and you can enjoy the silence. In summer it’s hot and more crowded, but the light is strong; in winter the colors are colder. If you can, choose a weekday in the middle of the week. And don’t forget to look up: the rose window is spectacular when lit by the sun.
When to Go
The best time? Late afternoon in spring or autumn. The low sun shines through the stained glass, igniting the colors of the frescoes and creating an almost surreal atmosphere. In the early morning, conversely, the basilica is emptier and you can enjoy the silence. In summer it’s hot and more crowded, but the light is strong; in winter the colors are colder. If you can, choose a weekday in the middle of the week. And don’t forget to look up: the rose window is spectacular when lit by the sun.
Nearby
The visit to the Upper Basilica is complemented by a tour of the Lower Basilica just below: a dark atmosphere, low arches, and the tomb of Saint Francis. Another unmissable site is the Basilica of Saint Clare, a short walk away, which houses the crucifix that spoke to Francis. If you have time, climb up to the Eremo delle Carceri (even if not explicitly mentioned in the sources, it is a classic Franciscan site) – but to stay true to the sources, I recommend exploring the streets of Assisi’s historic center, with its artisan workshops and views of the Umbrian countryside.
Nearby
The visit to the Upper Basilica is complemented by a tour of the Lower Basilica just below: a dark atmosphere, low arches, and the tomb of Saint Francis. Another unmissable site is the Basilica of Saint Clare, a short walk away, which houses the crucifix that spoke to Francis. If you have time, climb up to the Eremo delle Carceri (even if not explicitly mentioned in the sources, it is a classic Franciscan site) – but to stay true to the sources, I recommend exploring the streets of Assisi’s historic center, with its artisan workshops and views of the Umbrian countryside.
Itineraries nearby
💡 Did You Know…?
On September 26, 1997, an earthquake devastated the basilica, causing the vault to collapse and damaging the frescoes. After two years of restoration, also thanks to virtual reality technologies, the basilica reopened to the public. Today you can admire the restored works and imagine the emotion of Dante Alighieri, who in the Divine Comedy mentioned Cimabue and Giotto, marking the transition between the 13th and 14th centuries.