Church of Sant’Anastasia: Veronese Gothic with frescoes by Pisanello and the Hunchback

As you pass through the Gothic portal of the Church of Sant’Anastasia, your breath catches. It’s not just a church; it’s a journey through time that envelops you with its solemn atmosphere and hidden treasures. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries by the Dominicans, it is the most important example of Gothic architecture in Verona. Its unfinished facade, made of red bricks, conceals a majestic interior where light filters through the tall stained-glass windows, creating chiaroscuro effects on the slender pillars. Here, among the naves, masterpieces await you, such as the frescoes by Pisanello and the curious figure of the Hunchback of Sant’Anastasia, a sculpture that has attracted visitors’ attention for centuries. It is a place that speaks of art, faith, and history, all contained within one unforgettable space.

The history of the Church of Sant’Anastasia is tied to the Dominican Order, which began its construction in 1290 on the site of a previous church dedicated to Saint Peter. The work continued for over two centuries, concluding in the 15th century, although the facade remained unfinished. In the 15th century, the church became an important artistic center, hosting works by masters such as Pisanello, who left his famous frescoes here. Over time, it has undergone restorations and modifications but has maintained its Gothic character intact. Today, it is a minor basilica and a point of reference for those wishing to discover Veronese medieval art.

• 1290: Construction begins at the behest of the Dominicans.
• 15th century: Completion of the main structure.
• 15th century: Creation of Pisanello’s frescoes and other artworks.
• Today: Minor basilica and a site of great tourist and religious interest.

One of the church’s most curious symbols is the Hunchback of Sant’Anastasia, a sculpture in red Verona marble depicting a man bent under the weight of a holy water stoup. Created in the 16th century, likely by Gabriele Caliari, father of the more famous Paolo Veronese, this figure has fueled legends for centuries. It’s said that touching its hunch brings good luck, a tradition that has polished the statue through constant contact with hands. But it’s not just a good luck charm: the Hunchback also represents a reminder of human suffering, placed within a religious context that invites reflection. Observe it up close and you’ll notice the realistic details of the face and clothing, an example of Renaissance sculpture that dialogues with the surrounding Gothic architecture.

In the Pellegrini Chapel, to the right of the main altar, you’ll find the frescoes by Pisanello, one of the most important painting cycles of the International Gothic style in Italy. Created around 1430, they depict scenes of Saint George and the Princess, although unfortunately they’ve reached us in fragmentary form due to time and damage. What remains, however, is enough to appreciate Pisanello’s mastery: the details of the horses, the gleaming armor, and the expressiveness of the figures transport you to a chivalric world. The technique and colors, though faded, display a rare elegance. It’s a work that requires some patience to admire, but it’s worth every second, especially considering that few places in Italy preserve such significant testimonies of this artist.

Visiting the Church of Sant’Anastasia offers at least three unmissable reasons. First, it is a unique Gothic masterpiece in Verona, with its soaring architecture and medieval atmosphere that envelops you as soon as you enter. Second, it houses artistic treasures such as Pisanello’s frescoes, rare examples of 15th-century painting, and the Gobbo, a sculpture rich in history and legends. Third, it is a tranquil and less crowded place compared to other Veronese sites, ideal for a relaxed visit without queues. Additionally, its location in the historic center makes it easily accessible on foot, perfect for including in a cultural itinerary that also features the Arena or Piazza delle Erbe.

To fully experience the Church of Sant’Anastasia, I recommend visiting in the early morning hours, when natural light streams through the stained glass windows and illuminates the frescoes, creating a magical atmosphere. Additionally, there are fewer visitors at this time, allowing you to admire the details at your own pace. As for the season, autumn is particularly enchanting: the warm colors of the city complement the Gothic architecture, and the mild weather invites exploration without the summer crowds. Avoid peak tourist days, such as summer weekends, if you prefer a more intimate experience.

After your visit, explore the surroundings to enrich your Veronese experience. Just a short walk away, you can reach Piazza delle Erbe, the ancient Roman forum now a lively market, where you can sample local specialties or admire the frescoes on medieval houses. For another artistic gem, head to San Fermo Church, with its extraordinary double church and fourteenth-century frescoes, a unique example of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Both places are easily accessible and perfectly complement an itinerary dedicated to Verona’s art and history.