Monte Legnoncino: A Panoramic Trek from Sueglio

The climb from Sueglio to Monte Legnoncino is one of those treks that stay with you: it may not be the Legnone, but the so-called “little Legnone” offers a balcony over the Alto Lario that is hard to beat. You set off from the village in Valvarrone and climb through alleys, mule tracks and woods, with the little lake of Artesso as the first stop. Then come the trenches of the Cadorna Line, the gun emplacements and the former military tunnel: First World War history in the open air. At Roccoli Lorla, the pond, the mountain hut and the larches prepare you for the final stretch, up to the little church of San Sfirio and the summit cross. The view sweeps over Lake Como, Monte Legnone, the Valchiavenna and the Valtellina. This is no ordinary route: from Sueglio it requires fitness, but it rewards you with continuous views and a truly panoramic finale.

Monte Legnoncino preserves a military history and a local devotion. The small church of San Sfirio was built in 1771; according to legend, Sfirio chose this peak to live in solitude and communicated with his brothers through night fires. The parish church of San Martino in Sueglio houses relics attributed to the saint. Between the late 19th century and World War I, the Cadorna Line was built, the defensive system of the Upper Lario: trenches, machine-gun emplacements, cave positions, observation posts and tunnels. Many of these structures were never used in combat, but they can still be traced in the landscape. Today the route links them with information panels and military trails. Timeline:

• 1771: construction of the small church of San Sfirio.
• 1899-1918: construction of the Cadorna Line.
• First World War: positions and observation posts on Legnoncino.
• Today: trenches and tunnels can be visited along the hiking route.

The route starts in Sueglio near the town hall, a short walk from the bus stop and car parks. The alleys climb steeply, then the path enters the woods and crosses the paved road several times. In the early sections waymarks are sparse, so it is best to keep an eye on the track. You reach the huts and meadows of Loco Tocco, then the small lake of Artesso, with a fountain and rest area. Here the Artesso gun emplacements trail branches off, with signs describing First World War positions. Just above is the Roccolo di Artessio, used for ringing migratory birds. Continuing, you arrive at Rifugio Bellano and the “trench path”: trenches, machine-gun posts and cave positions follow one another among larches and views over Lake Como. The former military tunnel is restored and open, but a torch may be useful.

After the trenches, you reach Roccoli Lorla, where there is a small pond and the refuge of the same name, also a useful base for the fountain. The pond is home to amphibians: toads and frogs are especially noticeable in the damp areas. From here you can climb along a winding military road, pleasant and scenic, or take a steeper path through the larch woods. After passing the tunnel, a slightly exposed stretch leads to the ridge and the little church of San Sfirio, built in 1771. With care, continue among the rocks to the summit cross, where there are also a small statue of the Madonna and the topographic marker. The view is a full 360°: Monte Legnone, Pizzo Tre Signori, Valvarrone, Val Chiavenna, Alto Lario, Bregagno, Pizzo Badile and, on clear days, Monte Rosa.

There are at least three concrete reasons to climb Monte Legnoncino. The first is the view: few treks in the area offer such a complete panorama over Lake Como, Pian di Spagna, Lake Mezzola and the Alps. The second is history within walking distance: trenches, gun emplacements, tunnels and observation posts of the Cadorna Line can be touched along the way, with no museum required. The third is flexibility: you can set off from Sueglio for a longer, more demanding route, or from Artesso or Roccoli Lorla for a shorter climb, also suitable for families and dogs. The mountain huts, when open, offer refreshment; at the summit there are picnic tables. Don’t expect a solitary mountain: at weekends the road to Roccoli Lorla is narrow and busy. But as soon as you start walking, Lake Como takes over.

My favourite moment is a clear day with raking light, early in the morning or late in the afternoon: Lake Como opens up below the ridge and Monte Legnone seems closer. In autumn the chestnut and larch woods change colour and the air is often crisp; in spring residual snow can make shaded sections slippery. In summer it is best to avoid the middle of the day, because the climb is long and there is little shelter on exposed stretches. After a snowfall the landscape is beautiful, but you need microspikes and some experience. If the sky is cloudy, the risk is reaching the summit in fog: check the weather forecast and choose a stable window. The best light for photographing Lake Como? In my opinion, from late afternoon, when the colours warm up.

If you still have time, the village of Sommafiume is a quiet outlying detour to add to your descent: some loop routes pass through it, but the trails are steep and little-trodden. Another idea is to end the day on the lakeside promenade at Dervio or towards Colico, looking down on the places you have just seen from the summit. Rather than a classic “surroundings” stop, this is the right context for understanding the geography of the Lario: Pian di Spagna, Lago Mezzola and the mouth of the Valchiavenna are easy to read from the Legnoncino and then from below. I would also keep a stop at the Rifugio Roccoli Lorla if it is open: opening is not guaranteed, so it is best to bring water and provisions. The area is perfect for combining trekking with an easy walk, without rushing.