Bisce Island Lighthouse: 360° View Over Porto Cervo and Costa Smeralda

The Lighthouse of Isola delle Bisce is not just a nautical landmark, but a true silent guardian overlooking the entrance to Porto Cervo. You reach it after a short panoramic walk, and when you see it emerge from the Mediterranean scrub, you immediately understand why it’s worth it. Its position on this rocky islet, separated from the coast by a stretch of turquoise sea, offers a breathtaking 360-degree view of the Costa Smeralda. It’s not a crowded place; in fact, you often feel like the only ones enjoying this corner of Sardinia. The impression is of being on a natural terrace suspended between sky and sea, with the sound of waves as the soundtrack. Personally, I like to think of it as the perfect observation point to grasp the majesty of this coastline, away from the glamour of the marinas.

The history of this lighthouse is closely tied to the nautical development of the Costa Smeralda. It was built in 1962, during the peak of Sardinia’s ‘Dolce Vita’ era, when Porto Cervo began transforming from a wild bay into an international destination. While it lacks the ancient stones of 19th-century lighthouses, its simple and functional architecture tells a specific story: that of the modernization of the Sardinian coast to accommodate elite tourism. For years, it guided sailors toward the port, becoming a symbol for those navigating these waters. Today, although no longer active as it once was (it’s automated), it remains an exceptional witness to how this stretch of coastline has changed, while preserving its solitary aura.

• 1962: Construction of the lighthouse during Porto Cervo’s development.
• Late 20th century: Automation of functions, end of the permanent watch.
• Today: A scenic destination for hikers and photography enthusiasts.

Reaching the lighthouse is already half the experience. You start from an unmarked but well-trodden path near the Cala di Volpe complex. The walk is easy, suitable for everyone, and winds through wind-twisted junipers and the scent of helichrysum. There are no flashy tourist signs, and perhaps that’s for the best: it feels like discovering a secret trail. At a certain point, the path overlooks the sea, and the Bisce islet suddenly appears, with the lighthouse looking like a small white toy. At low tide, you wade across the short stretch of water separating the coast from the islet – watch out for slippery rocks! I recommend wearing hiking shoes or at least shoes with good soles. The moment you set foot on the islet, surrounded only by the sea, is magical. You understand why locals affectionately call it ‘lu faru’.

Once at the top, near the base of the lighthouse, the view is simply hypnotic. The gaze spans from Porto Cervo with its white architectures to the beaches of Liscia di Vacca, with the sea fading into infinite shades of blue. To the north, the jagged shapes of Capo Ferro can be glimpsed. It’s the ideal spot to take photos without crowds in the background, especially at dawn or sunset, when the light is golden and the lighthouse casts long shadows. I sat there for an hour, simply watching the boats entering and leaving the port—they looked like tiny models. Sometimes seagulls fly over, and the wind carries a salty scent. There are no benches, but some flat rocks serve as natural seats. It’s one of those places where you feel like staying longer than planned, even just to soak in the peace.

Visiting the Bisce Lighthouse is worthwhile for at least three concrete reasons. First, it offers a unique and unconventional perspective on the Costa Smeralda, away from the usual tourist routes. Second, it’s an experience accessible to everyone, requiring no special equipment or extensive preparations, perfect for a refreshing break during a vacation. Third, it’s an authentically photogenic spot at any time of day, whether for a selfie with the breathtaking backdrop or for more artistic shots of the lighthouse against the sky. Plus, it has that slightly ‘abandoned’ charm that appeals to those seeking corners that aren’t too perfect. In short, it’s a way to see Porto Cervo from a different angle, more wild and intimate.

The best time? Without a doubt at sunset, when the sun dips behind the inland hills and paints the lighthouse and sea in shades of orange and pink. The atmosphere becomes almost surreal, and the light is perfect for photos. In summer, it’s also a way to escape the midday heat. In spring and autumn, you can enjoy the walk with milder temperatures and nature in bloom. I’d avoid days with strong maestral winds, as the wind makes the walk uncomfortable and the crossing dangerous. I went there in late September, and the light was wonderful, with very few people around. In winter, if the weather is nice, it can be a destination for an energizing walk, but you need to check the sea conditions for the crossing carefully.

After visiting the lighthouse, if you feel like continuing to explore, here are two concrete suggestions. The first is to take a quick trip to the Prince’s Beach, one of the most famous coves in the area, reachable with a short walk from Romazzino. The water is crystal clear and the sand is fine, ideal for a refreshing dip. The second is to visit the Stella Maris church in Porto Cervo, a small gem of modern architecture designed by Michele Busiri Vici, with its characteristic sail-like shape. Both places complete the experience of this part of the coast, blending nature, design, and relaxation. If you’re hungry afterwards, near Porto Cervo you’ll find several trattorias where you can taste the fresh catch of the day.