San Michele in Foro: Romanesque loggia facade and gilded statues in Lucca

You arrive in Lucca and, among its medieval streets, you come across a facade that seems suspended in time. San Michele in Foro is not just a church, it’s a sight that stops you in your tracks. It stands precisely where the Roman forum once was, and today it dominates the square with its superimposed loggias that look like stone lace. The first impression? That statue of Saint Michael at the top, shining in the sun as if about to take flight. It’s a mix of sacred and majestic that captivates even those who aren’t particularly religious. Strolling here, with locals chatting at the tables of surrounding cafes, makes you feel in the beating heart of the city, not in a museum. Personally, I enjoy observing the details: every column is different, and if you look closely, you’ll notice faces and animals carved among the arches. A perfect start to exploring Lucca.

The history of San Michele in Foro is a layered tale. Construction began in 1070, but it took centuries to complete, especially that incredible facade. It was never entirely finished, and perhaps that’s precisely its charm: it feels like a work in progress. In the Middle Ages, this square was the civic and religious heart of Lucca, and the church was its symbol. It is said that Saint Zita, the city’s patron saint, also prayed here. In the 16th century, the interior was renovated, but the exterior retained that Romanesque appearance that still amazes today. A fun fact? The facade is taller than the nave, almost as if it’s trying to challenge the sky. Simplified timeline:

• 1070: Construction begins on the site of an older church
• 12th-14th centuries: Creation of the loggia facade
• 16th century: Interior renovations in Renaissance style
• Today: An active church and tourist destination in the heart of Lucca

If there’s one element that makes San Michele unique, it’s its façade. It isn’t flat but seems to come alive, with four tiers of loggias rising towards the sky. Each column is different: some smooth, others twisted, and if you look closely, you’ll discover capitals carved with leaves, animals, and human faces. I’m always struck by how the afternoon light plays with these shadows, creating almost theatrical effects. At the top, the statue of Archangel Michael in gilded copper shines against the blue sky – they say that on certain days it truly seems to move. It’s not just decoration: this structure tells of Lucca’s wealth in the Middle Ages, when silk merchants funded such ambitious works. A tip? Take ten minutes just to look at it from different angles: from afar, it resembles embroidery; up close, you feel the strength of the stone.

Passing through the door of San Michele is like entering another world. From the external exuberance, you transition to a sober, almost intimate nave, with massive pillars and an air of tranquility. The interior, remodeled during the Renaissance, preserves works such as Filippino Lippi’s altarpiece, but what strikes me is the contrast. Outside, the buzz of the square; inside, silence broken only by footsteps. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, you can hear the organ resounding during services. And then there’s the crypt, hidden and seldom visited, with remains of the ancient church. It’s a place that invites you to pause, not just to take photos. Personally, I find this duality makes the visit more complete: first, you’re moved by the grandeur, then you stop for the intimacy. It’s not a museum-church, but a living place where the people of Lucca still gather.

Visiting San Michele in Foro is worthwhile for at least three concrete reasons. First, it’s a masterpiece of Tuscan Romanesque architecture that you won’t find preserved so well elsewhere: those loggias are a unique example, and studying the details is like reading an open-air art history book. Second, its location in the Roman forum allows you to understand how Lucca has evolved over the centuries: you’re at the exact spot where the city was born. Third, it’s free and always accessible (except during services), perfect for including in a stress-free walking itinerary. Plus, if you love photography, the facade offers incredible plays of light, especially at sunset. In short, it’s not just a stop to check off, but an experience that immerses you in the heart of Lucca.

The best time? An autumn afternoon, when the light is warm and tourists begin to thin out. In summer, the square can be crowded, but if you pass by early in the morning, perhaps on a Sunday, you’ll find a more tranquil atmosphere, with locals heading to mass. I avoid the middle of the day, when the sun is high and the facade loses some of its charm. In winter, with short days, the bronze of San Michele against a grey sky has its own character, almost melancholic. If you want personal advice, try seeing it at dusk: the lights come on and the shadows on the loggias become very deep. That’s when you truly feel the magic of the place.

After San Michele, the visit continues just a few steps away. Head towards Torre Guinigi, the one with trees on top: climbing its 230 steps (it’s tiring, but worth it) rewards you with a panoramic view of Lucca, with the church of San Michele in the foreground. Then, for a themed experience, make a quick stop at the National Museum of Palazzo Mansi, where you can admire furnishings and art that tell the story of Lucca’s noble luxury. If you feel like taking a break, in the nearby streets you’ll find shops selling typical products, such as buccellato, the local sweet. These are all attractions that complete the picture of a city rich in history and flavors, without needing to leave the center.