Villa l’Ammiraglio: An 18th-Century Villa with Historic Thermal Baths and Italian Gardens

As soon as you arrive at Villa l’Ammiraglio, you immediately understand that this is no ordinary villa. We’re in San Giuliano Terme, just a few kilometres from Pisa, but here time seems to have stood still. The first thing that strikes you is the perfect harmony between the 18th-century architecture and the lush greenery of the gardens. It’s not just a historic building, but a living place where history, art, and well-being blend naturally. I was immediately drawn to that sense of peace you can feel here, away from the tourist bustle yet still in the heart of Tuscany. The villa presents itself with an elegant, almost understated facade, which conceals interior treasures and a thermal space that invites you to linger. For me, it was a pleasant surprise to discover that here you can alternate a cultural visit with a moment of relaxation in the thermal waters, all in the same place. A rare combination that makes this experience truly unique.

The history of Villa l’Ammiraglio is closely intertwined with the San Giuliano thermal baths, known since Roman times. The villa as we see it today was built in the 18th century, when the area became a fashionable destination for European aristocracy. It was designed by architect Ignazio Pellegrini, who also worked for the House of Lorraine, and this is evident in its refined details. During the 19th century, the villa changed hands several times, including being owned by the English admiral Horatio Nelson, from whom it takes its name. During World War II, it suffered damage but was later carefully restored. Today, in addition to being a historical site, it houses an active thermal and cultural center. The timeline helps highlight key moments:

• Roman era: first evidence of the thermal baths
• 18th century: construction of the villa commissioned by the House of Lorraine
• 19th century: ownership by Admiral Horatio Nelson
• 20th century: war damage and subsequent restoration
• Today: thermal and cultural center open to the public

One of the aspects that captivated me the most are the gardens of Villa l’Ammiraglio. They are not just a green backdrop, but a true botanical and artistic journey. There are hidden corners where you’ll find eighteenth-century statues nestled among centuries-old trees, such as oaks and cypresses typical of the Tuscan countryside. While walking, I noticed small fountains and intertwining pathways, creating a romantic and almost fairy-tale atmosphere. In spring, the blooming of antique roses adds an incredible touch of color. It’s not a formal, rigid garden, but has a wild soul that invites you to get lost. Personally, I spent an hour sitting on a bench, listening only to the sound of water and birds. It’s the ideal place for a refreshing break after exploring the villa’s interiors or having a spa treatment. If you love photography, you’ll find postcard-perfect views without the crowds.

Not everyone may know that Villa l’Ammiraglio conceals a small thermal gem. The waters that spring here are rich in sulfur and mineral salts, known for their beneficial properties on the skin and respiratory tract. Don’t expect a modern, sparkling spa: the atmosphere is more intimate and historic, with stone pools reminiscent of ancient Roman baths. I tried a thermal bath and found it relaxing, with warm water that has a slight sulfur scent – an aroma I enjoy, but some might find strong. In addition to traditional treatments, they also offer wellness programs like mud baths and massages, perfect for unwinding from daily routines. The nice thing is that you can combine a cultural visit with a moment of pure relaxation without having to travel elsewhere. I recommend booking in advance, especially on weekends, as the spaces aren’t huge, and the experience is more enjoyable without too many people.

Visiting Villa l’Ammiraglio is worthwhile for at least three concrete reasons. First, it’s a rare example of a historic villa that’s still alive and accessible, where you can see well-preserved 18th-century frescoes while also enjoying a thermal bath. Second, the gardens offer an oasis of peace just steps from Pisa, ideal for a break away from tourist crowds. Third, the location is extremely convenient: you can combine the visit with a trip to San Giuliano Terme, a thermal village full of character, without having to make long transfers. Additionally, if you’re passionate about history, here you breathe the atmosphere of 19th-century Tuscan aristocracy, with interesting anecdotes about figures like Nelson. For me, it was a discovery that unexpectedly enriched my trip, adding a piece of relaxation to an itinerary typically rich in art and monuments.

The best time to visit Villa l’Ammiraglio? I’d recommend going on a spring morning or in early autumn. In spring, the gardens are in full bloom and the air is fresh, perfect for a stroll among the statues and fountains. In autumn, on the other hand, the colors of the leaves create a warm and evocative atmosphere, ideal for romantic photographs. I’d avoid the hottest hours of summer because, even though there are shaded areas, the Tuscan heat can be intense. If you want to try the thermal baths, a mild afternoon is ideal for a relaxing soak. Personally, I visited in September and found the place almost deserted, with a golden light that made everything magical. In winter, the villa is still open, but the gardens lose some of their green charm—unless you love a more intimate and silent atmosphere.

If you have time, there are a couple of experiences worth combining in the surroundings of Villa l’Ammiraglio. First, the historic center of San Giuliano Terme, a thermal village with a relaxed atmosphere, where you can stroll through ancient streets and perhaps stop at a local pastry shop to sample typical sweets. Then, just a few minutes’ drive away, there’s the Tenuta di San Rossore, a natural park where you can hike or cycle through pine forests and wetlands, spotting deer and wild horses. It’s an excellent way to end the day immersed in nature, after the culture and relaxation of the villa. If you prefer to stay on the theme of thermal baths, there are other historic thermal facilities in the area, but Villa l’Ammiraglio remains the most distinctive for its blend of art and wellness.