The Winter Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, better known as the Old Cathedral or Rotonda, is a Romanesque gem in the heart of Brescia. Built in the 11th century atop a paleo-Christian basilica, it surprises with its unique circular form in Italy. Inside you will find masterpieces like the Antegnati organ and the series of canvases by Moretto and Romanino.
– Romanesque Architecture: one of the most important Romanesque rotundas in Italy, with a hemispherical dome and ambulatory.
– Crypt of San Filastrio: the oldest Christian site in Brescia, with early medieval columns and capitals.
– Artworks: sarcophagus of Berardo Maggi, Antegnati organ, and paintings by Moretto and Romanino.
– Free Entry: open daily 8:00-19:00, in Piazza Paolo VI.
Events nearby
The Winter Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, known as the Old Cathedral, is a Romanesque masterpiece with a circular plan. Visit the Crypt of San Filastrio and admire works by Moretto and Romanino. Free entry in Piazza Paolo VI.
- Piazza Paolo VI, Brescia (BS)
- Open in Google Maps
- View on Google Images Concattedrale invernale di Santa Maria Assunta a Brescia
Good to know
Evocative Introduction
Entering the Rotonda di Brescia is like stepping into the Middle Ages. The Winter Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, with its unique circular layout, welcomes you in Piazza Paolo VI with an air that is both solemn and familiar. The white stone walls, single-lancet windows, and conical tiburio tell stories from a thousand years ago. For me, the Old Cathedral is one of those places that quietly gets under your skin: the light filtering through the windows, the silence broken only by footsteps on the ancient floor. And the best part? Entry is free, so you can come and go as you please, maybe returning in the evening to see it lit up.
Evocative Introduction
Entering the Rotonda di Brescia is like stepping into the Middle Ages. The Winter Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, with its unique circular layout, welcomes you in Piazza Paolo VI with an air that is both solemn and familiar. The white stone walls, single-lancet windows, and conical tiburio tell stories from a thousand years ago. For me, the Old Cathedral is one of those places that quietly gets under your skin: the light filtering through the windows, the silence broken only by footsteps on the ancient floor. And the best part? Entry is free, so you can come and go as you please, maybe returning in the evening to see it lit up.
Historical Background
The history of the Rotonda begins in the distant 6th century, when a paleochristian basilica dedicated to Santa Maria Maggiore de Dom existed. After a fire in 1095, it was decided to build the current Romanesque church, completed in the first half of the 12th century. Over the centuries, Bishop Berardo Maggi expanded the presbytery (13th century), and between the 15th and 16th centuries, transepts and chapels were added. Unfortunately, in 1708 the bell tower collapsed due to the enlargement of the portal. A 19th-century restoration by Luigi Arcioni brought the medieval structure to light, removing the Baroque additions. Here are the key moments:
Historical Background
The history of the Rotonda begins in the distant 6th century, when a paleochristian basilica dedicated to Santa Maria Maggiore de Dom existed. After a fire in 1095, it was decided to build the current Romanesque church, completed in the first half of the 12th century. Over the centuries, Bishop Berardo Maggi expanded the presbytery (13th century), and between the 15th and 16th centuries, transepts and chapels were added. Unfortunately, in 1708 the bell tower collapsed due to the enlargement of the portal. A 19th-century restoration by Luigi Arcioni brought the medieval structure to light, removing the Baroque additions. Here are the key moments:
Architecture and Atmosphere of the Rotunda
The circular floor plan is the first thing that catches the eye. Eight massive pillars support round arches and a hemispherical dome, creating a unique play of volumes. The ambulatory wraps around the Platea of Santa Maria, the lower central core, while the presbytery is raised. As you walk, you notice the signs of time: the faded frescoes, the remains of the original basilica on the floor. The Crypt of San Filastrio is the true gem: six colonnades with Roman and Byzantine capitals, three naves, and an almost hypogean atmosphere. Down there, the relics of Bishop Filastrio have rested since the 9th century. It’s a place that makes you feel small, but in a good way.
Architecture and Atmosphere of the Rotunda
The circular floor plan is the first thing that catches the eye. Eight massive pillars support round arches and a hemispherical dome, creating a unique play of volumes. The ambulatory wraps around the Platea of Santa Maria, the lower central core, while the presbytery is raised. As you walk, you notice the signs of time: the faded frescoes, the remains of the original basilica on the floor. The Crypt of San Filastrio is the true gem: six colonnades with Roman and Byzantine capitals, three naves, and an almost hypogean atmosphere. Down there, the relics of Bishop Filastrio have rested since the 9th century. It’s a place that makes you feel small, but in a good way.
Must-See Masterpieces
Inside, every corner holds a treasure. The sarcophagus of Berardo Maggi in red Verona marble is spectacular: on the slab, the scene of the peace between Guelphs and Ghibellines from 1298. Then there is the organ by Giangiacomo Antegnati, from the 16th century, with doors painted by Romanino depicting sacred scenes. And what about the canvases by Moretto and Romanino? They come from the demolished Basilica of San Pietro de Dom and tell stories of the Passion with incredible expressive power. The Chapel of the Holy Crosses, with its reliquaries, is another treasure chest: here fragments of the True Cross are preserved, visible only on special occasions. Every visit is a discovery.
Must-See Masterpieces
Inside, every corner holds a treasure. The sarcophagus of Berardo Maggi in red Verona marble is spectacular: on the slab, the scene of the peace between Guelphs and Ghibellines from 1298. Then there is the organ by Giangiacomo Antegnati, from the 16th century, with doors painted by Romanino depicting sacred scenes. And what about the canvases by Moretto and Romanino? They come from the demolished Basilica of San Pietro de Dom and tell stories of the Passion with incredible expressive power. The Chapel of the Holy Crosses, with its reliquaries, is another treasure chest: here fragments of the True Cross are preserved, visible only on special occasions. Every visit is a discovery.
Why Visit It
Three good reasons? First: it’s free – and in an expensive historic center like Brescia, that’s a gift. Second: the 6th-century crypt is one of the oldest places in the city, and you feel like you can touch history. Third: the concentration of artworks by Moretto, Romanino, and Antegnati rivals that of a museum, but here the atmosphere is that of a living church, not a display case. Plus, it’s in Piazza Paolo VI, a stone’s throw from the New Cathedral and the Broletto, so you can pop in between visits without wasting time.
Why Visit It
Three good reasons? First: it’s free – and in an expensive historic center like Brescia, that’s a gift. Second: the 6th-century crypt is one of the oldest places in the city, and you feel like you can touch history. Third: the concentration of artworks by Moretto, Romanino, and Antegnati rivals that of a museum, but here the atmosphere is that of a living church, not a display case. Plus, it’s in Piazza Paolo VI, a stone’s throw from the New Cathedral and the Broletto, so you can pop in between visits without wasting time.
When to Go
I’m biased, but early morning is the best time. The low light streaming through the Rotonda’s windows creates an almost mystical atmosphere. If you can, choose a weekday: there are fewer people, and you can enjoy the silence. In autumn, when the sun is lower, the shadows on the walls are breathtaking. Avoid lunchtime if you want to escape the tourist bustle. April and May are perfect because the city is in bloom. But honestly, it’s beautiful in every season – as long as there’s some light.
When to Go
I’m biased, but early morning is the best time. The low light streaming through the Rotonda’s windows creates an almost mystical atmosphere. If you can, choose a weekday: there are fewer people, and you can enjoy the silence. In autumn, when the sun is lower, the shadows on the walls are breathtaking. Avoid lunchtime if you want to escape the tourist bustle. April and May are perfect because the city is in bloom. But honestly, it’s beautiful in every season – as long as there’s some light.
Nearby
Leaving the Rotonda, you’re spoiled for choice. The New Cathedral is just a few steps away, with its 80-meter dome and the Ark of Saint Apollonius: well worth a quick visit. Then, a two-minute walk brings you to Piazza della Loggia, Brescia’s living room, with the Clock Tower and Renaissance porticoes. If you have more time, the Santa Giulia Museum is a must-see: it tells the city’s story from prehistory to the 20th century, and it’s less than a ten-minute walk away. For a coffee, the bars under the porticoes on Via dei Musei are perfect for a break.
Nearby
Leaving the Rotonda, you’re spoiled for choice. The New Cathedral is just a few steps away, with its 80-meter dome and the Ark of Saint Apollonius: well worth a quick visit. Then, a two-minute walk brings you to Piazza della Loggia, Brescia’s living room, with the Clock Tower and Renaissance porticoes. If you have more time, the Santa Giulia Museum is a must-see: it tells the city’s story from prehistory to the 20th century, and it’s less than a ten-minute walk away. For a coffee, the bars under the porticoes on Via dei Musei are perfect for a break.
Itineraries nearby
💡 Did You Know…?
A curious anecdote: in 1708, the ancient Romanesque bell tower collapsed after the opening of the new Baroque portal, destroying the monument to Bishop Bollani. Today, in the sarcophagus of Berardo Maggi, the peace between Guelphs and Ghibellines of 1298 is immortalized, an event that marked the history of Brescia.