Barletta: A One-Day Walking Tour Through Castle, Theater, and Art Gallery

We begin our day in Barletta at the city’s symbol: the Swabian Castle. Overlooking the sea, this fortress is an incredible palimpsest of history: Norman, Swabian, Angevin, and Spanish. Entering through the stone bridge, you cross the moat and find yourself in a large square courtyard, the beating heart of cultural events. Don’t miss the bust of Frederick II of Swabia and the Sarcophagus of the Apostles, a Paleochristian testimony from the 3rd-4th century. The castle houses the Civic Museum, with archaeological finds and works of art, and the Municipal Library. Climb the ramparts for a 360° view of the city and the Adriatic. Admission costs €6 (reduced €3) and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7 pm. A tip: get the cumulative ticket (€8) which also includes the Picture Gallery and the Cantina della Sfida, it will save you money.

After the Castle, the second step is a must: the Teatro Curci. Entering here is like taking a step back in time, among gilded decorations and a ceiling depicting Aurora on the chariot of the Sun. Inaugurated in 1872, after the collapse of the old San Ferdinando, it was rebuilt on the model of the San Carlo in Naples. The horseshoe-shaped hall has 495 seats, but the real magic is in the details: the boxes with cornucopias, the historic curtain by Calò that tells the story of the Disfida di Barletta, and those busts of musicians that greet you on the façade. I went there one afternoon, without a show, and even so the atmosphere was charged. Today it hosts seasons of drama, dance, and international concerts. If you pass by, check the program: you might catch something special.

After leaving Teatro Curci, another gem awaits you: the De Nittis Gallery, inside the splendid Palazzo della Marra. Here time stands still before the masterpieces of Giuseppe De Nittis, an Impressionist from Barletta who conquered Paris. The collection, donated by his wife Léontine, includes 146 paintings and 65 drawings: a journey from the light of Naples to Parisian high society, passing through horse races and intimate portraits. I was enchanted by “Colazione in giardino” (Breakfast in the Garden), an explosion of light en plein air. The two-floor exhibition is meticulously curated, with comparisons to Manet and Degas. If you love 19th-century art, here you’ll find a piece of European history. By the way, the Baroque palace deserves a mention: look out from the loggia with a sea view!

The final stop is the most unexpected. In the monumental cemetery of Barletta lies a modern work of art: the Yugoslav ossuary. Designed by sculptor Dušan Džamonja and architect Hildegard Auf-Franić, it was inaugurated in 1970 to commemorate the partisans who fell during World War II. The reinforced concrete structure spans two levels: outside, large volumes converge toward a skylight; inside, a granite staircase descends into the crypt where over 800 bodies rest. On two bronze portals are engraved the names of the fallen and missing, a list that stirs emotion. At the center of the floor, a red mosaic symbolizes the blood shed. From the terrace, there is a view of the Adriatic, with the idea that the sea unites the two shores. Today, the monument is unfortunately in a state of decay due to salt spray, but it remains a powerful place of memory, far from mass tourism. I recommend visiting with respect, perhaps at sunset when the warm light enhances the Brutalist forms.