Lizard Castle: A Dive into the Middle Ages in Apricale

Perched on a rocky spur, the Castle of the Lizard is the first thing you see as you approach Apricale. A village that looks like it stepped out of a fairy tale, with narrow alleys and stone arches. Climbing toward the fortress, the scent of wild basil mingles with the dry air of the Ligurian hinterland. This isn’t one of those cold, dusty castles: here you can still feel life pulsing within the walls.

Built in the 12th century by the Ventimiglia family, the castle was remodeled several times. In 1270 it passed to the Counts of Provence, then to the Grimaldis of Monaco. But its real turning point came in 1927, when it was restored and turned into a small museum. Today it houses the local rural civilization, with tools and period objects. Here are the key moments:

• 12th century: foundation of the castle by the Ventimiglia family
• 1270: Provencal rule
• 15th century: transfer to the Grimaldis
• 1927: restoration and opening to the public

Climbing the main tower, your gaze sweeps over the inland hills all the way to the sea. Every corner is a postcard: the limestone, the bell tower of Santo Stefano, the slate roofs. I stopped for fifteen minutes just to look, without rushing. The wind carries the sounds of the village: a dog barking, the noise of a shutter banging. If you enjoy photography, the sunset here is textbook.

Inside the castle, the Museum of Rural Life catapults you into a past that feels incredibly distant, yet it was only a hundred years ago. Farming tools, looms, copper objects: everything tells the story of the hard but authentic life of Apricale’s inhabitants. What struck me the most? An old perfectly functioning loom, with a handwritten sign explaining how it was used. Don’t expect hi-tech displays: everything here is genuine, like grandparents showing you their world.

First: it’s an authentic plunge into the Middle Ages, without the crowds of the more famous villages. Second: the view over the Nervia valley offers glimpses you won’t easily forget. Third: if you’re a photography and tranquility enthusiast, you’ll find perfect spots for shots without tourists. And then, just a few steps away, there are trattorias where you can taste Ligurian cuisine made with aromatic herbs and olive oil.

Sunset is the best time: the castle stone glows orange and the distant sea becomes a golden line. In spring, the fields are in bloom and the air is fresh; in autumn, the leaves paint the hills yellow. Avoid the height of summer if you can’t stand the heat, but if you happen to be there on the second weekend of August, there’s the Feast of Saint Bartholomew with dancing and singing in the square.

Just a few kilometers away, Dolceacqua awaits with its Roman bridge and the Doria castle. If you’re a wine lover, stop by a cellar to taste the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC. Or, for a nature walk, the trail from Apricale down to the Rio Merdanze is a plunge into a forest of oaks and chestnuts, perfect for a cool break in summer.