Palatine Hill: Imperial Ruins and Views over the Roman Forum

Ascending the Palatine Hill is like traveling back in time to the origins of Rome. This hill, the most central of the seven, is not just an archaeological site: it is the place where, according to legend, Romulus founded the city in 753 BC and where emperors built their sumptuous residences. Today, walking among the ruins of the imperial palaces, with the remains of the House of Augustus and the House of Livia splendidly frescoed, offers a unique emotion. The view from above is spectacular: on one side, you overlook the Roman Forum with its temples and basilicas; on the other, you glimpse the Circus Maximus. It is an experience that blends history, archaeology, and breathtaking panoramas, perfect for understanding where Rome’s power was born and grew.

The Palatine Hill has been inhabited since the Iron Age (9th century BC), but its history truly unfolds with Rome. According to tradition, this is where the she-wolf nursed Romulus and Remus, and where Romulus traced the foundational furrow. During the Republican era, it became the residential quarter for the aristocracy. With Augustus, the first emperor, the hill transformed into the heart of power: he built his residence here, initiating a veritable ‘imperial city’ on the hill. His successors, like Domitian and Septimius Severus, erected increasingly grandiose palaces, such as the Flavian Palace and the Baths of Septimius Severus, whose imposing structures we admire today. Its importance declined with the fall of the Empire, but its ruins have always captivated, becoming a destination for artists and scholars during the Renaissance.

• 9th century BC: First settlements on the hill.
• 753 BC: Legendary founding of Rome by Romulus.
• 1st century BC – 1st century AD: Augustus and the first emperors make the Palatine the seat of power.
• 1st-3rd centuries AD: Construction of the great imperial palaces (Domitian, Septimius Severus).
• Today: Central archaeological park, part of the UNESCO site ‘Historic Centre of Rome’.

At the top of the hill, you don’t expect to find a garden. Instead, the Farnese Gardens, created in the mid-16th century by the powerful Farnese family, are a pleasant surprise. They are considered one of Europe’s first botanical gardens. Strolling among pathways, fountains, and boxwood hedges offers a respite from the imposing ancient ruins. The most magical spot is the Casina del Belvedere: from here, the view stretches across an incredible panorama embracing the Forum, the Imperial Forums, and all the way to the Vittoriano. It’s the perfect place for a contemplative pause, where ancient history and the Renaissance merge in an unforgettable vista.

Among the ruins of Domitian’s Palace stands out a long rectangular area surrounded by a portico: this is the Palatine Stadium. It was not a stadium for major races (those were held at the Circus Maximus), but rather a private garden for the emperor, used for walks, gymnastic exercises, and perhaps more intimate performances. Walking along its perimeter, imagining it lush with plants and statues, gives you a sense of the opulence of imperial life. Observing its dimensions (about 160 meters in length) and its location within the residential complex, one can appreciate the grandeur and pursuit of pleasure that characterized the court.

Visiting the Palatine Hill is worthwhile for three concrete reasons. First: it’s the all-in-one ticket to history. With the same ticket, you see the mythical origins, the houses of the first emperors, and the grandeur of later power. Second: the views are irreplaceable. From here, you have the most comprehensive high vantage point over the Roman Forum, a perspective that helps you understand the layout of the ancient buildings like nowhere else. Third: it’s a haven of relative tranquility. Compared to the crowds at the Colosseum, here you can breathe more freely and stroll among ruins and gardens with greater calm, allowing for a more intimate and reflective exploration.

The best time to enjoy the Palatine Hill is in the early afternoon, especially during the spring months or early autumn. The low-angle afternoon sunlight bathes the ruins of the Forum below in warm tones, creating a truly evocative and photogenic atmosphere. During these seasons, the weather is mild, and the Farnese Gardens are lush. Avoid the midday hours on the hottest summer days, as the area is extensive with little shade. A visit on a mild October day, as the sun begins to set, offers unforgettable emotions and colors.

Leaving the Palatine Hill, you find yourself in the heart of ancient Rome. A natural next stop is the Circus Maximus, right at the foot of the hill. Today it’s a vast grassy field, but imagining its original scale and the historic chariot races completes your sense of leisure in ancient Rome. For a fascinating contrast, walk to the Jewish Ghetto and Tiber Island. Here, among characteristic alleyways, the Synagogue, and the unique atmosphere of the island on the Tiber River, you transition from the imperial era to Rome’s medieval and Renaissance history, discovering another authentic side of the city.