Sant’Anastasia Church: Gothic, Art, and Lucky Hunchbacks

And here we are in front of the Church of Sant’Anastasia, the largest religious building in Verona. The incomplete brick facade immediately strikes you: it’s as if time stood still. Locals call it by this name, but it is actually dedicated to St. Peter Martyr. Inside, the atmosphere is Gothic and solemn, with those huge red and white marble columns. And then there are them, the hunchbacks holding the holy water stoups: you almost instinctively want to touch them, they bring good luck, they say. It’s a place that captures you, between art and popular devotion.

And here we are in front of the Church of Sant’Anastasia, the largest religious building in Verona. The incomplete brick facade immediately strikes you: it’s as if time stood still. Locals call it by this name, but it is actually dedicated to St. Peter Martyr. Inside, the atmosphere is Gothic and solemn, with those huge red and white marble columns. And then there are them, the hunchbacks holding the holy water stoups: you almost instinctively want to touch them, they bring good luck, they say. It’s a place that captures you, between art and popular devotion.

Construction began in 1290 at the behest of the Dominicans, with support from the Scaligeri and the Castelbarco family. Work lasted over two hundred years: the church was consecrated only in 1471, and the facade was never completed. It stands on the site of two older churches, dedicated to Saint Anastasia and Saint Remigius. After the Napoleonic suppression of 1807, it passed to the secular clergy. Here are the key moments:

• 1290: construction begins
• 1471: consecration
• 1807: closure of the Dominican convent
• 1878-1881: first restorations

Construction began in 1290 at the behest of the Dominicans, with support from the Scaligeri and the Castelbarco family. Work lasted over two hundred years: the church was consecrated only in 1471, and the facade was never completed. It stands on the site of two older churches, dedicated to Saint Anastasia and Saint Remigius. After the Napoleonic suppression of 1807, it passed to the secular clergy. Here are the key moments:

• 1290: construction begins
• 1471: consecration
• 1807: closure of the Dominican convent
• 1878-1881: first restorations

As soon as you enter, two statues of hunchbacks greet visitors, holding holy water fonts. The one on the left is attributed to Gabriele Caliari, father of Veronese; the one on the right, called Pasquino, was placed in 1591. Popular tradition says that the hunchbacks symbolize the effort of the poor to finance the church. Touching their hump brings good luck, and you’ll see many locals doing it. In reality, they are wonderful examples of Mannerist sculpture: the weight of faith turned into marble.

As soon as you enter, two statues of hunchbacks greet visitors, holding holy water fonts. The one on the left is attributed to Gabriele Caliari, father of Veronese; the one on the right, called Pasquino, was placed in 1591. Popular tradition says that the hunchbacks symbolize the effort of the poor to finance the church. Touching their hump brings good luck, and you’ll see many locals doing it. In reality, they are wonderful examples of Mannerist sculpture: the weight of faith turned into marble.

In the Pellegrini Chapel lies the most precious gem: the fresco St. George and the Princess by Pisanello, painted between 1433 and 1438. It is the pinnacle of International Gothic in Verona. St. George is about to mount his horse, while the dragon feeds on victims in the background. The details are incredible: garments, horses, a fairy-tale landscape. Unfortunately, water has damaged some parts, but it remains one of the most fascinating works I have ever seen. Don’t miss it.

In the Pellegrini Chapel lies the most precious gem: the fresco St. George and the Princess by Pisanello, painted between 1433 and 1438. It is the pinnacle of International Gothic in Verona. St. George is about to mount his horse, while the dragon feeds on victims in the background. The details are incredible: garments, horses, a fairy-tale landscape. Unfortunately, water has damaged some parts, but it remains one of the most fascinating works I have ever seen. Don’t miss it.

Three practical reasons: first, it’s free (no entrance fee). Second, it’s the finest example of Gothic architecture in Verona: cross vaults, two-tone columns, the original 1462 floor. Third, the lucky hunchbacks and the Pisanello frescoes are unique. Plus, there’s the atmosphere: it’s not a museum but a living church, with masses and worshippers. You walk in, sit down, and let the silence speak to you.

Three practical reasons: first, it’s free (no entrance fee). Second, it’s the finest example of Gothic architecture in Verona: cross vaults, two-tone columns, the original 1462 floor. Third, the lucky hunchbacks and the Pisanello frescoes are unique. Plus, there’s the atmosphere: it’s not a museum but a living church, with masses and worshippers. You walk in, sit down, and let the silence speak to you.

The best time? Early morning, around 10 AM when they open: light filters through the stained glass and there are still few tourists. Alternatively, late afternoon in autumn or spring: the brick facade glows red, and the interior fills with long shadows. Avoid Sunday afternoons if you can – it’s crowded after mass. And in winter, with the cold, the silence is even more intense.

The best time? Early morning, around 10 AM when they open: light filters through the stained glass and there are still few tourists. Alternatively, late afternoon in autumn or spring: the brick facade glows red, and the interior fills with long shadows. Avoid Sunday afternoons if you can – it’s crowded after mass. And in winter, with the cold, the silence is even more intense.

Just a few steps away is the Ponte Pietra, the Roman bridge crossing the Adige: from there, the view of the church and the hill is special. Right after, take via Arche Scaligere to see the Arche Scaligere, Gothic funerary monuments that look like carved jewels. If you’re still in the mood, Piazza delle Erbe is a 5-minute walk away: perfect for an aperitivo with a view.

Just a few steps away is the Ponte Pietra, the Roman bridge crossing the Adige: from there, the view of the church and the hill is special. Right after, take via Arche Scaligere to see the Arche Scaligere, Gothic funerary monuments that look like carved jewels. If you’re still in the mood, Piazza delle Erbe is a 5-minute walk away: perfect for an aperitivo with a view.