What to See in Reggio Calabria: Museums, Castles, and the Waterfront

If there is a place that holds the ancient soul of Calabria, it is the National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria (MArRC). Designed by Marcello Piacentini between 1932 and 1941, it was among the first museums in Italy purposely built to house archaeological artifacts. After a long restoration, it reopened in 2016 with a modern layout that takes you on a journey from prehistory to the Byzantine period. The highlight? Undoubtedly the Riace Bronzes, two Greek statues from the 5th century BC, nearly two meters tall, fished out in 1972 off the coast of Riace. In the climate-controlled room, access is limited for their protection: you enter, pause for a few minutes in a buffer room, and then... you come face to face with these warriors. Eyes of calcite, lips of copper, teeth of silver: you will never forget them. But the museum is much more: there are the pinakes of Locri, votive tablets telling the myth of Persephone, the Kouros of Reggio in Parian marble (6th century BC), and the mysterious Head of the Philosopher from Porticello. The collections are spread over four levels (plus a basement for temporary exhibitions), with displays ranging from the rock engravings of the Grotta del Romito (12,000 years ago) to the mosaics of Kaulon. I spent hours on the first floor, among the Locrian bronze mirrors and 3D reconstructions of temples. And the museum is just a stone's throw from the Falcomatà waterfront: after the visit, a stroll along the Strait is a must. Practical info: open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 AM to 8 PM (last admission 7:30 PM), full ticket €10 (reduced €2 for 18-25 years). Book online to avoid queues, but not mandatory for individuals. Oh, the first Sunday of the month is free.

If there is a place that holds the ancient soul of Calabria, it is the National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria (MArRC). Designed by Marcello Piacentini between 1932 and 1941, it was among the first museums in Italy purposely built to house archaeological artifacts. After a long restoration, it reopened in 2016 with a modern layout that takes you on a journey from prehistory to the Byzantine period. The highlight? Undoubtedly the Riace Bronzes, two Greek statues from the 5th century BC, nearly two meters tall, fished out in 1972 off the coast of Riace. In the climate-controlled room, access is limited for their protection: you enter, pause for a few minutes in a buffer room, and then... you come face to face with these warriors. Eyes of calcite, lips of copper, teeth of silver: you will never forget them. But the museum is much more: there are the pinakes of Locri, votive tablets telling the myth of Persephone, the Kouros of Reggio in Parian marble (6th century BC), and the mysterious Head of the Philosopher from Porticello. The collections are spread over four levels (plus a basement for temporary exhibitions), with displays ranging from the rock engravings of the Grotta del Romito (12,000 years ago) to the mosaics of Kaulon. I spent hours on the first floor, among the Locrian bronze mirrors and 3D reconstructions of temples. And the museum is just a stone's throw from the Falcomatà waterfront: after the visit, a stroll along the Strait is a must. Practical info: open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 AM to 8 PM (last admission 7:30 PM), full ticket €10 (reduced €2 for 18-25 years). Book online to avoid queues, but not mandatory for individuals. Oh, the first Sunday of the month is free.

The Aragonese Castle is one of the most authentic symbols of Reggio Calabria, alongside the Riace Bronzes. Located in Piazza Castello, between via Aschenez and via Possidonea, this fortress has ancient origins: the first Byzantine fortification dates back to 536 AD, commissioned by General Belisarius to defend the port. Over the centuries, it passed through many hands: Normans, Swabians, Angevins, and finally the Aragonese. However, it was King Ferdinand I of Aragon who, in 1458, gave it its current appearance, adding the two imposing crenellated cylindrical towers that still characterize it today. The sloping base and rounded cornice are not just decorative: they were designed to deflect cannonballs and prevent scaling. During the Turkish siege of 1543, the castle sheltered over a thousand Reggini fleeing. After the 1908 earthquake, much of the structure collapsed, but the towers remained intact, so much so that in 1897 they were declared a National Monument. Today, the castle is a vibrant cultural space, hosting exhibitions and events. Climbing onto the terraces, the view of the Strait of Messina is breathtaking; you feel a bit like an Aragonese soldier. The visit lasts about an hour: you tour the interior halls, admire the walkways, and read the graffiti left by prisoners of the Risorgimento. As for tickets: full price €5, reduced €2 for residents, free for under 6 and over 70. Open Monday to Friday 8:30 AM–1:00 PM and 2:30 PM–7:00 PM, Saturday afternoon, Sunday morning. A traveler's tip: arrive around 5 PM, when the light illuminates the towers and the Strait turns golden. The castle is well connected to the center: a few steps from the Archaeological Museum and the waterfront. Don't miss it!

As you stroll along the Falcomatà waterfront, you'll come across a structure that seems to have emerged from ancient Greece: the Arena dello Stretto, officially dedicated to Senator Ciccio Franco. It is a modern theater, but its design faithfully echoes that of Greek theaters, with a semicircular seating area directly overlooking the Strait of Messina. In my opinion, it's one of the most evocative spots in the city, especially at sunset, when the light paints Mount Etna and the Sicilian coast.

Built where the Molo di Porto Salvo once stood – destroyed by the 1908 earthquake – the Arena is a tribute to the Magna Graecia tradition. At its highest point, almost on the water, stands a Marble Stele with a bronze statue of the goddess Athena Promachos, created by Bonfiglio in 1932. Originally facing the sea, in 2001 it was turned toward the city by order of Mayor Italo Falcomatà: a gesture that, in my view, gives it an even stronger meaning, almost protective.

The Arena is not just a monument to see: it's alive. In summer, it hosts events like the Reggio Calabria Film Fest, the fashion festival Tesori del Mediterraneo, concerts, and the Summer Solstice festival of the Academy of Fine Arts. The two wide side ramps make it wheelchair accessible, and there's a restaurant for a break. In short, if you're passing through Reggio, stop here: admission is free, and the view alone is worth the trip.

If you're in Reggio Calabria, stop in front of Palazzo San Giorgio and look up: the Francesco Cilea Theatre occupies an entire block between Corso Garibaldi and the side streets. With 1,500 seats, it's the largest theatre in Calabria. Its history reads like a novel: the first stone was laid in 1913, but the 1908 earthquake had already destroyed previous theatres. The project, by engineers Domenico De Simone and Carlo Laviny, was inaugurated in 1931. Then after the war it was expanded and reopened in 1964 with Verdi's 'Il Trovatore'. In the 1980s it closed due to structural issues, followed by eighteen years of restoration. Today it shines again, with an exterior reminiscent of classical architecture and a horseshoe-shaped interior with three tiers of boxes, a gallery, and a grand royal box. The atmosphere is solemn, the red curtain imposing. The theatre has hosted legends like Maria Callas and Luciano Pavarotti, and today offers seasons of drama, opera (with the Rhegium Opera Festival), and dance. On the first floor there is also the Civic Art Gallery, with works by Antonello da Messina, Mattia Preti, and Renato Guttuso. A tip: check the program before you go – you might catch a show and experience it to the fullest.

If you're in Reggio Calabria, stop in front of Palazzo San Giorgio and look up: the Francesco Cilea Theatre occupies an entire block between Corso Garibaldi and the side streets. With 1,500 seats, it's the largest theatre in Calabria. Its history reads like a novel: the first stone was laid in 1913, but the 1908 earthquake had already destroyed previous theatres. The project, by engineers Domenico De Simone and Carlo Laviny, was inaugurated in 1931. Then after the war it was expanded and reopened in 1964 with Verdi's 'Il Trovatore'. In the 1980s it closed due to structural issues, followed by eighteen years of restoration. Today it shines again, with an exterior reminiscent of classical architecture and a horseshoe-shaped interior with three tiers of boxes, a gallery, and a grand royal box. The atmosphere is solemn, the red curtain imposing. The theatre has hosted legends like Maria Callas and Luciano Pavarotti, and today offers seasons of drama, opera (with the Rhegium Opera Festival), and dance. On the first floor there is also the Civic Art Gallery, with works by Antonello da Messina, Mattia Preti, and Renato Guttuso. A tip: check the program before you go – you might catch a show and experience it to the fullest.

Stepping into the Pinacoteca Civica di Reggio Calabria is like opening a treasure chest that many tourists unfortunately miss. Housed on the first floor of the Teatro Francesco Cilea on Corso Garibaldi, this small yet rich art gallery collects works spanning from the 15th to the 20th century, with a special focus on Calabrian artists. The exhibition unfolds across eleven rooms covering about 500 square meters, officially inaugurated on May 26, 2008, but the collections have much older origins: they come from the old Museo Civico founded in 1882 and later dissolved, supplemented by purchases and donations.

The true gems are two wooden panels by Antonello da Messina (1460-1465): St. Jerome in Penitence and The Three Angels Appearing to Abraham, purchased by the municipality in 1890. Alongside them stand out The Return of the Prodigal Son by Mattia Preti (1656) – an immense canvas measuring 216x231 cm – and Christ and the Adulteress attributed to Luca Giordano. But it doesn't end there: the gallery boasts over 250 paintings by Calabrian artists such as Ignazio Lavagna Fieschi, Rubens Santoro, Annunziato Vitrioli, and sculptures by Francesco Jerace (including the bust of Nosside) and a Laocoön attributed to Pietro Bernini.

Practical info: Located at Corso Garibaldi corner with Via Osanna 6, and fully accessible to the disabled via the entrance on Via Osanna. Hours: Tuesday-Friday 8:30-13:30 and 14:30-18:00, Saturday 8:30-18:30, Sunday 9:00-13:00; closed Mondays. Full ticket €5, reduced €2, or combined with the Aragonese Castle for €7. Guided tours last about 45 minutes (max 25-30 people), reservation required. If you're passing through Reggio, don't miss this cultural gem: the masterpieces are many, but the real value lies in its ability to tell the story of Calabrian art in an intimate and surprising way.

If you're passing through Reggio Calabria, don't miss the Museo Diocesano, named after Monsignor Aurelio Sorrentino. It's located right next to the Cathedral, in a wing of the Archbishop's Palace that survived the 1908 earthquake. Inaugurated in 2010, but founded as an institution as early as 1957, it houses a collection of sacred art that tells centuries of faith and craftsmanship. The route winds through thematic rooms: from the Treasury of the Cathedrals with furnishings from the 16th to the 20th century, to the furnishings of the confraternities, and the objects of saint worship. Among the highlights, the 15th-century pastoral staff of Archbishop Antonio De Ricci, made of embossed silver and enamel, and the cartagloria of 1777, a liturgical object now disused but incredibly refined. Also look out for the rayed monstrance designed by Francesco Jerace (1928) and the processional float “Nuvola”, from the 18th century, which arrived from Camerino after the 2016 earthquake. The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday, mornings from 9am to 1pm, and on Fridays also afternoons (3-7pm). Full ticket €5, reduced €3. The entrance is a bit hidden (via Campanella 63), but once inside you'll feel like you've stepped back in time. If you're a fan of sacred art or just curious, this place will leave you speechless.

If you're looking for a place off the beaten path, Sant'Aniceto Castle is a true gem. Perched on a hill at 670 meters above sea level, it overlooks the Strait of Messina with a panorama that, on clear days, offers Mount Etna in the background. It is one of the rare examples of a Byzantine fortress still standing in Italy, built between the late 10th and early 11th centuries to defend the local population from Saracen raids. Its irregular layout resembles a ship, with the stern facing the sea and the bow towards the Aspromonte mountains. The walls, up to 3.5 meters high and one meter thick, are in excellent condition and enclose two square towers at the entrance, the remains of a cistern, and traces of ancient Byzantine churches. One of these, the Church of the Annunziata, preserves a fresco of Christ Pantocrator, typical of Byzantine art. Entry is free and access is open, but be prepared for an uphill walk: the last stretch is on foot. From Reggio Calabria, if you don't have a car, you'll need to take a bus to Motta San Giovanni and then a shuttle service by reservation. The effort is rewarded by the feeling of walking through history: here you breathe an authentic medieval atmosphere, far from mass tourism. Keep an eye out for hawks that often soar above the walls.

Piazza Italia, or Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II if you prefer, is the elegant living room of Reggio Calabria, and at its center stands the Monument to Italy, a three-meter-high work in white Carrara marble. Created in 1868 by sculptor Rocco La Russa, the statue depicts Italia Turrita: a female figure with flowing hair, holding a sword in her right hand and a laurel wreath in her left. At the time, this gesture was an invitation to the people to unify the country, remembering the martyrs of September 2, 1847, who fell in the revolt against the Bourbons. On the base, the inscription "Greeting the resurrected Italy, we remember the martyrs of September 2, 1847" and the names of Domenico Romeo, Domenico Morabito, Raffaele Giuffrè Billa, Giuseppe Favaro, and Antonio Ferruzzano. The square itself is a gem: beneath your feet, through four steel and glass skylights, you can see the remains of the ancient Greek agora and Roman forum. Surrounding it are historic buildings such as Palazzo San Giorgio (the town hall) and Palazzo Alvaro (headquarters of the Metropolitan City). A stop here is a dive into history, between the Risorgimento and millennia of stratification. Bring your camera: the monument is photogenic, and the sunset light on the marble is spectacular.

If you're in Reggio Calabria and want to combine history with stunning scenery, the Fortini di Pentimele are a must-see. What makes them special? You won't spot them from the sea: they are underground fortifications, carved into the hillside, built between 1896 and World War I to defend the Strait without drawing enemy attention. Two identical structures: the Fortino Nord (or Pizzi) and the Fortino Sud (or Pellizzeri), both with the same layout. Each was surrounded by a moat and had a drawbridge; parts of the moat are still visible today. Inside, you'll find corridors, dormitories, stables, water cisterns, and, according to local legend, secret passages leading to the port or the Aragonese Castle.

The view from up there? Reggio Calabria and the Strait of Messina embrace in a single, unique panorama. But not everything is perfect: the southern fort has been restored, but nearby TV antennas clash with the setting; the northern fort is more neglected, with grass growing between the bricks. And the access road, a winding uphill path from the former Agenzia del Territorio, unfortunately has landslides in some sections, and repairs are slow. Despite signs of vandalism and decay, the site is worth a visit—perhaps at sunset, when the lighting creates a magical atmosphere. In short, a piece of military history with all the trimmings, albeit a bit battered.

If you think Reggio Calabria is just about the promenade and the Riace Bronzes, think again. In the heart of Mirella Carbone Park, near the Faculty of Architecture, lies the Pythagoras Planetarium, a structure that has been bringing the sky under a dome since 2004. And what a dome: 12 meters in diameter for the outer one, 8 meters for the suspended inner one, which serves as a giant screen. It is one of the largest planetariums in Europe.

This is no ordinary projection. The mixed system, optical-mechanical and digital (since 2019), lets you travel through time and space: see the sky as it appeared two thousand years ago or witness an eclipse from the comfort of your seat. Professor Angela Misiano, scientific director, has turned this place into a secular oratory where science and beauty meet. Renowned guests like Margherita Hack have graced this stage, and every year thousands of students take part in workshops, Astronomy Olympiads, and PCTO programs.

But it's not just for schools. The Planetarium organizes events for everyone: conferences, stargazing nights with telescopes (they have a 15 cm Astro Physics refractor and a 30 cm Schmidt-Cassegrain), and even cultural series like “Lo strappo del cielo di carta” (The Tear in the Paper Sky), blending philosophy, literature, and cinema. Admission is free, and the facility is open to families, young people, and adults. Booking is recommended, especially for groups. In short, a must-see stop if you want to see Reggio Calabria from a different perspective: that of the stars.

If you stroll along the Falcomatà waterfront, a stone's throw from the train station, you'll come across an incredible piece of history: the Roman Baths. Discovered in 1886 during the dismantling of the Bastion of San Matteo – which had protected them for centuries – and later brought to light after the 1908 earthquake, these ruins are all that remains of a private bath complex from the imperial era. The modest size (likely a private building) does nothing to diminish their charm: you can still see the elliptical pool for hot baths, preceded by a tepidarium and calidarium, a square pool for cold water, and a small semicircular changing room with a black-and-white mosaic dating from the 2nd-3rd century AD. The black tesserae are made of lava stone brought from Sicily or the Aeolian Islands, a detail that speaks to the maritime trade of the time. Nearby, a sturdy wall might be an ancient Norman defense or a bank of the Calopinace river. Admission is free, but to visit the interior you need to call the association IN.SI.DE at 3661019145 (it's best to book, especially if you're in a group). If you have time, also stop by the National Archaeological Museum, where the frescoes detached from the walls and a reconstruction of the building are preserved. In short, a quick stop that offers a dive into Roman Reggio.

If you think Reggio Calabria is only about the waterfront and museums, you're wrong. In the heart of the historic center, between Via del Torrione and Via Tripepi, hides a little-known archaeological gem: the remains of the Odeon/Ekklesiasterion. Discovered in 1922 by archaeologist Paolo Orsi, these ruins tell the story of public life in the Greek colony. Initially mistaken for an odeon (a music theater), today scholars believe it was the Bouleuterion, the seat of the city council, or even the Ekklesiasterion, the popular assembly. In short, here the Rhegians discussed politics and made important decisions. Dated between the 4th and 3rd centuries BC, the building had a circular plan made of squared limestone blocks. It could hold up to 1,500-1,600 people seated on fifteen tiers. Today, you can see little of this: only the foundations and a few traces. But by closing your eyes, you can imagine the buzz of the assembly. A few meters away, Orsi found three decorated Ionic capitals, probably part of a wooden speaker's platform. One detail to ponder: here Timoleon might have spoken in 344 BC, during the famous assembly that decided the fate of the city. The site is about a hundred meters from the sacred area of Fondo Griso-Laboccetta, within the walls. Don't expect an imposing monument: it's a corner of history that invites reflection. For me, it's one of those places that make you feel the weight of centuries. If you pass through Reggio, stop by: it's free and worth the trip.