Collemaggio Basilica in L’Aquila: Holy Door and Romanesque-Gothic Checkered Facade

The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio welcomes you with its striking chequered facade of white and pink stone, a Romanesque-Gothic masterpiece that dominates the hill of L’Aquila. Built at the behest of Pietro da Morrone, the future Pope Celestino V, in 1287, it is renowned for the Holy Door, one of the few in Italy opened annually for the Perdonanza. It was here, in 1294, that Celestino V was crowned pope, an event that marked the city’s history. Today, despite the damage from the 2009 earthquake and the lengthy restoration, the basilica retains an aura of spirituality and grandeur. Its elevated position offers panoramic views over L’Aquila, while the interior, with its soaring naves and side chapels, invites contemplation. It is a place where art, faith, and history converge, offering a unique experience for visitors to Abruzzo.

The basilica was founded by Pietro da Morrone in 1287 on a site where, according to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to him. In 1294, right here, he was crowned pope under the name Celestine V, an event that led to the establishment of the Celestinian Pardon, an annual jubilee granting plenary indulgence to the faithful. In 1327, the remains of the saintly pope were transferred inside the basilica, enriching its spiritual significance. Over the centuries, it underwent various modifications, including the addition of the rose window and side portals in Gothic style. Severely damaged by the 2009 earthquake, it was reopened for worship in 2017 after meticulous restoration that preserved its original structure. Today, it stands as a symbol of resilience for L’Aquila.

• 1287: Foundation by Pietro da Morrone
• 1294: Coronation of Celestine V and establishment of the Pardon
• 1327: Transfer of Celestine V’s relics
• 2009: Damage from the earthquake
• 2017: Reopening after restoration

The basilica’s facade is a unique example of Abruzzese Romanesque-Gothic architecture, characterized by alternating bands of white and pink stone that create a checkerboard effect. At its center stands the tracery rose window, one of the largest in central Italy, surrounded by symbols of the evangelists and floral decorations. The three portals, with pointed arches, feature sculptures depicting biblical stories and the life of Celestine V. The central one, the Holy Door, is opened only during the Celestinian Forgiveness on August 28-29. Recent restoration work has brought the original colors back to light, enhancing the chromatic contrast that makes it recognizable from afar. It’s a detail that captures the eye and invites you to discover the secrets held within.

Beyond the Holy Door, the basilica’s interior unfolds into three naves separated by octagonal pillars, with cross-vaulted ceilings that create a sense of spiritual elevation. In the right nave, the Chapel of Saint Peter Celestine houses the relics of the saintly pope, including his mitre and pastoral staff, while fifteenth-century frescoes depict episodes from his life. In the crypt, accessible via a side staircase, lies the mausoleum of Celestine V, a marble work that safeguards his remains and serves as a pilgrimage destination. Post-earthquake restorations have reinforced the structures and restored decorations, such as fragments of frescoes on the walls, which recall Marian devotion. The atmosphere is intimate, perfect for a moment of reflection away from the crowds.

Visit the Basilica of Collemaggio for three concrete reasons: first, it’s the only place in Italy where you can pass through a Holy Door annually, during the Celestinian Forgiveness, a rare spiritual experience. Second, the checkerboard facade is a unique architectural masterpiece, perfect for memorable photographs, especially with sunset light enhancing the colors. Third, inside, the relics of Celestine V and the frescoes offer a dive into Aquila’s medieval history, enriching your visit with authentic details. Additionally, the panoramic location over the city gives you a breathtaking view without having to pay an entrance fee, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring L’Aquila.

The most evocative time to visit the basilica is during the Perdonanza Celestiniana on August 28-29, when the Holy Door is open and the atmosphere fills with spirituality and cultural events. If you prefer to avoid the crowds, opt for a spring or autumn afternoon, when the low-angled sunlight enhances the details of the facade and the weather is ideal for a stroll in the surroundings. In winter, with snow covering L’Aquila’s rooftops, the contrast with the basilica’s colors creates a postcard-perfect scene, ideal for evocative photos without the crowds.

After visiting the basilica, explore the historic center of L’Aquila, just a few minutes’ walk away, where you can admire the Fountain of the 99 Spouts and the Basilica of San Bernardino, examples of post-earthquake rebirth. For a thematic experience, visit the Spanish Fort, a 16th-century fortress hosting exhibitions and events, connecting art and history in a single itinerary. Both sites are easily accessible and enrich your day with authentic glimpses of the city.