Scoglietto Lighthouse: The Jewel of Portoferraio

Imagine a rocky promontory plunging into the blue Tyrrhenian Sea, with a white lighthouse perched on the tip: this is the Scoglietto Lighthouse, perhaps the most stunning spot in Portoferraio. It’s no ordinary lighthouse: it’s a former military outpost turned into a peaceful refuge, reachable only on foot or by boat. The silence is broken only by the sound of waves and wind. From here, the view stretches over the gulf and the Elban hills, and at sunset the sky turns orange and pink. It’s the kind of place that stays with you, long after you’ve left.

Built in 1864 by the Italian Navy, the Scoglietto Lighthouse was meant to guide ships through the Piombino Channel. Until the 1970s, it was manned by keepers who lived here in complete isolation. In 2022, it was restored and opened to the public, becoming a prime vantage point. Today the lighthouse is unmanned, but its walls tell tales of shipwrecks and stormy nights. Here are the key moments:

• 1864 – Lighthouse construction designed by the Navy.
• 1970 – Automation and end of permanent watch.
• 2022 – Restoration and reopening for tourism.

To reach the lighthouse, follow a dirt path starting from Salita degli Scoglietti. It’s not difficult, but be prepared for a good hour’s walk through Mediterranean scrub and breathtaking views. The trail is well-marked, but the last stretch becomes steeper and rockier. In return, every bend offers a different vista: hidden coves, the profile of Capo Bianco, and the silhouettes of the islands of Cerboli and Palmaiola. Bring water and a hat: in summer, the sun beats down hard. I took a break halfway to admire the blooming broom shrubs – it looked like a painting.

Below the lighthouse, the sea is an aquarium: clear water and seabeds rich in posidonia and small colorful fish. There’s no real beach, but you dive straight in from the flat rocks. I snorkeled around the rocks and saw sea bass and damselfish. Caution: the rocks are slippery and there are no facilities, so bring water shoes and a snack. The best part is that it’s not crowded here, unlike the equipped beaches of Portoferraio. It’s a wild corner, perfect for those seeking an authentic connection with the sea.

Three reasons: first, the sunset is a meditative experience – the lighthouse glows with warm light and the sea becomes a sheet of gold. Second, it’s a little-known spot off the beaten path, so enjoy the peace. Third, the walk gives you a sense of adventure: you don’t arrive by car, you earn it. If you’re a photographer, bring a wide-angle lens to capture the cliff plunging into the sea. And if you have binoculars, you might spot dolphins offshore, as I did.

The best time? Late afternoon, two hours before sunset. The light is soft, the heat subsides, and after the descent you can have dinner in Portoferraio. In spring (April-June) the maquis is in bloom and the trail smells of helichrysum and rosemary. Autumn is ideal for those who don’t like crowds: September and October offer mild days and still warm sea. Avoid July-August at noon, unless you plan to take a refreshing dip right after the walk.

After your visit, I recommend a stop at Cape Bianco, a ten-minute drive away: a beach of pure white pebbles with a kiosk where you can enjoy an excellent octopus salad. Alternatively, if you love archaeology, the Museo della Linguella in Portoferraio tells the Roman history of Elba, with artifacts from the maritime villas. Two completely different experiences, both just a step away from the lighthouse.