Livorno in a Day: Fortresses, Markets, and Waterfront

The first stop on our Livorno itinerary is the Fortezza Nuova, a 16th-century gem designed by Bernardo Buontalenti at the behest of the Medici. Picture a pentagonal fortress, completely surrounded by water, connected to the mainland by a three-arched bridge. Once, cannons defended the city; today, after the damage of World War II, it’s a vibrant public park. Stroll among the lawns and embrasures, enjoy the view over the canals of the Venice quarter and Piazza della Repubblica. In summer, the bastion comes alive with events, concerts, open-air cinema, and a food area under the pine forest. Open daily from 8:30 AM, it is also accessible to people with reduced mobility thanks to ramps and elevators. Children find playgrounds at the South Bastion, while adults explore the Hall of Arches or the bookshop. A perfect mix of history, nature, and social life.

From Fortezza Nuova, just a few steps away is Pescheria Nuova, an 18th-century gem in the heart of Venezia Nuova. Here, since 1705, fishermen sold fresh fish under its vast loggias, using the Medici canals as a waterway. The architecture is captivating: three naves on the short side, four on the long side, with pillars and vaults creating a play of light and shadow. The attribution of the design is uncertain – some say Giovan Battista Foggini or Giuseppe Lorenzi – but the late Baroque style is unmistakable. Over time, it has changed its skin: first a fire station, then municipal offices. But the turning point came with the 2019-2020 restoration: removed fences, pedestrian space, benches, and a paving that restores dignity to the square. Today it is a livable and walkable place, where you can sit and admire the dialogue between Fortezza Nuova and the Palace of Justice. The original marble counters? Gone, but the ancient scent of the sea still lingers.

After leaving the lively fish market, you find yourself in Piazza Micheli, facing one of the city’s most powerful symbols. The Monument of the Four Moors celebrates Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici and the Order of the Knights of Santo Stefano, but it is the four bronze prisoners at his feet that steal the show. Pietro Tacca modeled them between 1623 and 1626, inspired by real slaves from the penal baths – one named Morgiano, another Alì – with an anatomical realism that still impresses today. The grand duke, in Carrara marble, looks out to sea, while the bodies of the Moors twist in suffering poses, chained to the base. Fun fact: if you stand on the white tile in the pavement, they say you can see all four noses at once – good luck. From 2025, a debated project will add four new statues of Moors free from chains, a sign that this monument continues to spark discussion. A dive into history that leaves no one indifferent.

Continuing along the Molo Mediceo, you reach the Lighthouse of Livorno, Italy’s oldest lighthouse. Built by the Pisans between 1303 and 1305 on a design attributed to Giovanni Pisano, it rises 52 meters with its double crenellated tower. Destroyed by the Germans in 1944, it was faithfully rebuilt in 1956 thanks to a public subscription. When open – visits are occasional, organized by associations such as Il Mondo dei Fari – climbing the 297 steps rewards you with a spectacular view of the port and the city. Here Galileo Galilei conducted experiments, and Petrarch mentioned it in his Itinerary. Today the lantern is automated: four flashes every twenty seconds, visible up to 24 miles. An iconic symbol that encapsulates centuries of maritime history.

Continuing along the Molo Mediceo, you reach the Lighthouse of Livorno, Italy’s oldest lighthouse. Built by the Pisans between 1303 and 1305 on a design attributed to Giovanni Pisano, it rises 52 meters with its double crenellated tower. Destroyed by the Germans in 1944, it was faithfully rebuilt in 1956 thanks to a public subscription. When open – visits are occasional, organized by associations such as Il Mondo dei Fari – climbing the 297 steps rewards you with a spectacular view of the port and the city. Here Galileo Galilei conducted experiments, and Petrarch mentioned it in his Itinerary. Today the lantern is automated: four flashes every twenty seconds, visible up to 24 miles. An iconic symbol that encapsulates centuries of maritime history.