Palazzo San Giorgio: The World’s First Bank in Genoa

Entering Palazzo San Giorgio is like diving into the financial and political heart of medieval Genoa. This building, overlooking the old port, holds centuries of history within its walls. The frescoed Renaissance façade welcomes you with a St. George slaying the dragon, while the red-brick medieval section tells of an even more remote past. It’s not just a monument: it’s the place where Marco Polo dictated Il Milione and where the world’s first bank was born. Get ready to be amazed.

Built between 1257 and 1260 at the behest of Guglielmo Boccanegra, Palazzo San Giorgio initially served as the town hall. It soon became a prison: in 1298, Marco Polo was imprisoned here and dictated his famous Il Milione. In 1407, all public debts were consolidated into the Bank of Saint George, which managed the Republic’s finances from here until 1797. After a period of decline, in 1903 the building became the seat of the Port Authority, which still occupies it today. Restorations by Alfredo d’Andrade and subsequent ones have restored its former splendor. Here are the key moments:
– 1260: construction of the palace
– 1298: imprisonment of Marco Polo
– 1407: founding of the Bank of Saint George
– 1797: closure of the bank
– 1903: seat of the Port Authority

Palazzo San Giorgio is unique because it has two completely different facades. The medieval one, in red brick with Ghibelline battlements, overlooks Piazza Caricamento: a portico with pointed arches and three-light windows. The Renaissance one, on Via della Mercanzia, is a triumph of frescoes: a Saint George on horseback, statues of historical figures like Christopher Columbus and Andrea Doria, and decorations that imitate marble. The original 17th-century frescoes by Lazzaro Tavarone were reproduced in the 20th century, but the effect is spectacular. Don’t miss the 18th-century shrine on Piazza Raibetta.

Inside, the Hall of the Shares is the heart of the palace: here bankers managed finances. On the walls, frescoes and statues of benefactors. The Hall of the Protectors preserves a Renaissance fireplace by Giovanni Giacomo Della Porta. In the medieval section, the Loggia is a jewel restored by D’Andrade, and the Long Wing houses a 15th-century relief of Saint George. The Hall of the Captain of the People is embellished with statues by Michele D’Aria. The historical archives hold documents from 1870 to 1945. Every room has a story to tell.

1. Because it’s free: admission is free, so you can visit without spending a dime. 2. For the history: Marco Polo, the first bank, the port of Genoa: a concentration of events that changed the world. 3. For the frescoes: the Renaissance façade is one of the most beautiful in Genoa, and inside you’ll find priceless works of art. A tip: visit during the week to avoid the crowds.

The palace is open all year round, but I suggest going in the late afternoon, when the sunset light illuminates the frescoed façade, creating a magical atmosphere. In winter, the colors are softer; in spring, the city is in bloom. If you can, choose a weekday to enjoy the tranquility. Avoid Monday mornings, as it is often closed for maintenance. Always check the opening hours.

After your visit, take a stroll through the Old Port: just steps away is the Genoa Aquarium, one of the largest in Europe. Or get lost in the narrow alleys (caruggi) of the historic center, only minutes away. Another must-see is Piazza Banchi with its loggia and market. If you have time, head up to Castello d’Albertis for a panoramic view of the city.