The Papal Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, constructed between 1569 and 1679, encloses three sites fundamental to the history of Saint Francis: the Porziuncola, the tiny 4th-century chapel he restored; the Chapel of the Transit, where he died in 1226; and the Thornless Rose Garden, associated with a Franciscan legend. Admission is free, and the atmosphere blends Renaissance grandeur with Franciscan simplicity.
- Porziuncola: small 4th-century chapel restored by Saint Francis, where he founded the Franciscan Order in 1208.
- Chapel of the Transit: cell where Saint Francis died on October 3, 1226, lying on the bare earth.
- Thornless Rose Garden: garden with ancient roses linked to the legend in which Francis rolled among the brambles.
- Free admission: visiting the basilica and its treasures is accessible to all without a ticket.
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16th-century basilica built to protect the Porziuncola, where Saint Francis founded the Franciscan Order in 1208. It houses the Chapel of the Transit, the place of his death, and the Thornless Rose Garden linked to a legend. Free admission.
- https://www.porziuncola.org/
- Piazza della Porziuncola, Perugia (PG)
- Open in Google Maps
- View on Google Images Basilica Papale di Santa Maria degli Angeli in Porziuncola a Perugia
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Introduction
Upon arrival, the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels impresses with its grandeur: a large church that seems to protect something precious within. And indeed it does. This basilica was built in the 16th century precisely to house the Porziuncola, the small chapel where Saint Francis founded the Order of Friars Minor. It is not just a monument, but a living place where you can breathe an intense peace, far from the hustle and bustle. The view of the dome towering over the Umbrian plain, with Assisi in the background, is reason enough to stop. Inside, the atmosphere changes completely: you move from the Baroque majesty of the nave to the absolute simplicity of the Porziuncola, a contrast that tells the whole story.
Historical Notes
The history here is deeply intertwined with Saint Francis. In 1208, Francis restored this abandoned chapel, the Porziuncola, and here he founded his order. Later, in 1216, he obtained from Pope Honorius III the Indulgence of the Porziuncola, known as the ‘Pardon of Assisi’. Centuries later, to protect the sacred site, Pope Pius V had the current basilica built between 1569 and 1679, enclosing the small chapel. It is a place that has witnessed crucial moments: here Francis died in 1226, in the nearby Chapel of the Transito. The timeline helps understand the layering:
- 1208: Saint Francis settles at the Porziuncola.
- 1216: Granting of the Indulgence of the Porziuncola.
- 1226: Death of Saint Francis in the Chapel of the Transito.
- 1569-1679: Construction of the Papal Basilica by order of Pius V.
The Porziuncola: The Hidden Heart
Entering the Basilica and finding yourself before the Porziuncola is an unforgettable experience. It feels almost like a set of Chinese boxes: a huge church containing a tiny, simple chapel with rough stone walls. This is where Francis heard the call to live in poverty, and it’s incredible how, despite the centuries and the grandeur surrounding it, this corner maintains an aura of poignant authenticity. The graffiti left by pilgrims over time on the outer walls speak for themselves. I paused to look at the details of the frescoes, some from the 14th century, which tell the story of the saint’s life. It’s not a museum; it’s a place that still inspires silence and reflection today, perhaps precisely because of that contrast between Baroque grandeur and this essential bareness.
The Chapel of the Transit and the Rose Garden
Next to the Porziuncola, there’s another space rich in meaning: the Chapel of the Transit. This is the cell where Saint Francis died on October 3, 1226, lying on the bare ground. Today it’s a secluded, almost intimate place, with an atmosphere of deep peace. Upon exiting, don’t miss the Rose Garden: according to tradition, here Francis rolled among the thorns to overcome a temptation, and the roses lost their thorns. Whether you believe the legend or not, the garden is a corner of tranquility, with varieties of ancient roses that bloom in spring. It’s a detail many overlook, but in my opinion it’s worth taking a walk here, perhaps after the interior visit, to better absorb the experience. Sometimes it’s these side spaces that offer the most genuine sensations.
Why Visit It
First: it’s a unique place in the world, where history, spirituality, and art come together in a tangible way. It’s not just a basilica but the heart of Franciscanism. Second: admission is free, making it an accessible stop for everyone, without the stress of tickets. Third: it offers a different perspective on Assisi. While the hilltop city is more touristy and crowded, here on the plain, there’s a more intimate, authentic atmosphere. And then, there’s the chance to attend celebrations, especially during the ‘Pardon of Assisi’ on August 2nd, when the energy of pilgrimage is palpable. In short, even if you’re not religious, it’s a piece of living history that helps you better understand Umbria.
When to Go
I recommend going early in the morning, shortly after opening, when light streams through the basilica’s windows and there are fewer people. The atmosphere is more intimate, and you can enjoy the Porziuncola in silence. If you prefer a specific season, autumn is fantastic: Umbria takes on warm hues, and the visit pairs beautifully with the scents of the season. Avoid major religious holidays if you don’t want crowds, but if you’re seeking the emotion of a pilgrimage, then August 2nd is unmissable. In winter, with fog enveloping the plain, the place takes on an almost mystical aura, but be prepared for the cold inside the basilica, which isn’t always heated everywhere.
In the Surroundings
After your visit, if you have time, take a quick trip to the Bosco di San Francesco, a natural trail managed by FAI that starts right behind the basilica. It’s a refreshing walk among oak and olive trees, with a view of the Porziuncola from above. Alternatively, head towards Santa Maria di Rivotorto, just a few minutes’ drive away: here you’ll find another Franciscan sanctuary linked to the early days of the order, simpler and less known, but equally evocative. Both places complete the picture of Francis’s life without requiring you to travel far, and offer you a connection with the Umbrian countryside that is an integral part of the experience.
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💡 Did You Know…?
Not everyone knows that the Porziuncola was originally a small abandoned church, surrounded by an oak forest. Saint Francis repaired it with his own hands after hearing its call. Here he established the Indulgence of the Pardon of Assisi (or Pardon of Assisi), granted by Pope Honorius III in 1216, which can be obtained by visiting the chapel from noon on August 1st to midnight on August 2nd. Another highly realistic detail: next to the basilica is the Thornless Rose Garden, where, according to tradition, Saint Francis rolled to overcome a temptation, and the thorns transformed into soft thorns that did not prick. The roses in the garden are still thornless today.